DIY How to make origami peacock

origami peacock 1

We need:

  • blue 1253;
  • green 678,
  • yellow 371,
  • rose 93;
  • Total: 2395.
  • The size of the modules 1/32.

Let’s start with the body.
Putting 2 rows of 10 modules, make a chain.

3 series of 20 moduley.Odevaem way (picture shown in a different color). 4,5,6,7,8,9y ranks dress ….. 20 modules in each row. In a series of dress 10 m 3 modules typically ray of a 2 by 2, 3, usually 2 2 ray of, etc. It turns out 25 pieces. in the row. 11,12 and 13 in the series of 25 modules, 14th series of dress 18 modules, 14 ray of reserve.
Next to these 18 dress 17 modules, and then again 18, then 17 and 18y number again 18 modules, 19 series of 17 modules, 20y- 18 modules.
I do so, leaving a hole in the trunk for hvosta.Vy and can not bother to wear until the 21st series of 25 modules. 21 and 22 series in 30 moduley.Vot so looks a hole in the trunk. 23rd series of dress one ray of module 3, poluchaetsya 20 modules ryadu.Po middle one pink dress. In the 24m row 1 module pink dress pink 2, the other 18 blue. 25th number 1 pink, 19 sinih.Odevaem way.
Our body is ready. We proceed to the neck.
Putting 4 ryada.V first row of 8 modules, a second series of 9 modules, the third row again 8 modules, the fourth series of 9 modules, the center 1 pink. 7th series of 10 blue. 8th series of 8 blue, 1 pink.
9th number 10 blue.
10th series of 8 blue, 1 pink.
11th number 10 blue.
12th series of 8 blue, 1 pink.
13th number of the first module of a three ray of the second, too, three ray of 4 module typically, 7th module as well as the first ray of a three and three-eighth ray of. Thus, among the leaves 8 modules. 14th number again reducing, 1 pink dress in the usual way and 4 blue on the sides of each ray of three. Leaves 5 pieces in a row. 15th number 6 blue dress as usual.
16th number 1 pink, 4 blue.
17th number 6 blue.
18y number 1 pink, 4 blue.
19y number 6 blue.
20th number 1 pink, 4 blue.
21y number 6 blue.
22nd row 1 pink, 4 blue.
23rd number 6 blue.
24y number 1 pink, 4 blue. 25th series make the cut, 4 blue dress. 26th number 1 pink in the center, 2 blue on the sides.
27y number 4 blue.
28y number 1 pink, 2 blue.
29y number 4 blue.
30th number 1 pink, 2 blue.
31y number 4 blue.
32nd number 1 pink, 2 blue .
33rd number 4 blue.
34th number 1 pink, 2 blue.
35th row 4 blue. 36th series of pink in the center, 2 extreme dress every 3 luchika.Takim way out in a series of 3 shtuki.Sverhu on them in the middle, 2 blue dress.
Neck ready. Now head.
Take the 13 units, 13 more top dress, but the short side of the module naruzhu.Kazhdy better prokleivat. holding the edges to turn out blank. The third and fourth series of 13 pieces each. In the fifth row we add 4 modulya.Odevaem 3 modules as usual, 2 modules in the ray of 2, 3, as usual, the ray of 2 to 2, etc. At the other photo shows tsvetom.Vyhodit 17 pieces in a row. In a series of 8 blue 6m modules, 1 green, 7 blue, 1 green. The 7m number 2 green, 7 blue, 2 green, 6 blue. In the 8th row 1 green, 1 pink, 1 green, 6 blue, 1 green, 1 pink, 1 green, 5 blue. 9th row 2 green, 3 blue, 1 yellow, 3 blue, 2 green, 6 blue,
10th number 1 green, 3 blue, 2 yellow, 3 blue, 1 green, 7 blue;
11th series of 3 yellow, the other blue;
12th series 4 yellow;
13th series of 5 yellow;
14th series go to umenshenie.Odevaem 4 yellow, every ray of module 3, blue dress like obychno.Vyhodit 15 pieces in a row. 15th row 5 yellow, 2 blue dress on the sides as usual, and 4 blue dress from the bottom every 3 luchika.Vyhodit 13 pieces in a row. And the last, 16th ryad.Odevaem yellow 4 modules, each ray of 3, 7 as the blue obychno.Golova gotova.Oformim later) We proceed to the tail.
Collect 3 ryada.V the first 19 units, the second series of 18 modules, the third 17 units.
!!! Each module prokleivat PVA better, but in this case the tail once, during assembly, it is necessary to curve shape. 4th series of 18 yellow. 5th row 1 blue, 1 yellow, 3 green, 1 yellow, 3 green, 1 yellow, 3 green, 1 yellow, 3 green, 1 yellow, 1 blue. 6th row 1 blue, 1 yellow, 2 green, 2 yellow, 2 green, 2 yellow, 2 green, 2 yellow, 2 green, 1 yellow, 1 green siniy.Mezhdu a pink paste. 1 blue, 1 yellow, 2 green, 1 yellow, 1 blue, 1 yellow, 2 green, 1 yellow, 1 blue, 1 yellow, 2 green, 1 yellow, 1 blue, 1 yellow, 2 green, 1 yellow, 1 blue . 1 blue, 1 yellow, 1 green, 1 yellow, 2 blue, 1 yellow, 1 green, 1 yellow, 2 blue, 1 yellow, 1 green, 1 yellow, 2 blue, 1 yellow, 1 green, 1 yellow, 1 blue . 1 blue, 2 yellow, 1 blue, 2 ray of missing, again one blue, etc. on top of the yellow dress one yellow, one on each side of the blue. Top two blue on them one by one. Make peryshki.Odevaem 1 blue, 1 green, 1 blue, 2 on top of the blue, 1 green on them. Next to the green, one blue dress on a blue ray. Top two green and blue on the sides as in the previous ryadu.Sverhu one yellow to green, flanked by the green and one blue. Top 2 green, next to the blue. Next 1 green, next to the blue and top them sinih.Delaem 2 of 3 more. Now green peryshki.Odevaem one module 2 blue green, then one again, 2,1,2,1,2. Dress 2 green yellow and one on each side of the green, then yellow, and the top two on the sides of the green. In the center of the blue near yellow, flanked by two blue zelenye.Sverhu next yellow on the sides of the green. Then dress the center 1 pink, next to blue, then yellow and sides zelenye.Sverhu 2 blue, 2 yellow, 2 green, then blue 1, 2 yellow, 2 zelenyh.Posle 2 yellow, 2 green above 1 yellow, 2 green , 2 green top and the top 1 of 4 zelenyy.Delaem. Nearby peryshki.Odevaem 2 blue, they are green, two blue, green, 2 blue, green. On each side of the green 2 blue, 2 green on, 2 blue, above the yellow, 2 green, 2 blue, 2 green on, 2 blue, still above the green and 2 blue, 2 blue above, the uppermost one of siniy.Delaem 3. On the lower two feathers that in the center, dress 2 blue, 1 green, 2 blue, 1 green. Making 4 arochki.V one arch modules 5 on one side, five on the other and one in the center. Top blue dress. In the center of a pink dress 1, 2 above zelenyh.Posle 1 yellow, 2 green, then 2 yellow, 2 green after 1 pink, 2 yellow and 2 green. Then, on top of 2 yellow, 2 green above 1 yellow, 2 green, 2 blue, 2 green after 2 blue, then 1 green, 2 blue, 2 blue and on the tip 1 siniy.Takih 3 pieces. And here is our little tail)) That’s all detali.Prikleivaem beak, eyes, hoholok.Soedinyaem all parts with Thermo) Our peacock 🙂

DIY Coffee bean clock

coffee bean clock 1

How to make coffee bean clock

hours, was born from a great love for coffee and chocolate 🙂
Thus, the coffee and the sweet tooth will need:

– Preparation hours under a coffee cup. My size is about 17 * 22 cm;

– Napkin in a coffee theme + brown or maroon monochrome napkin;

– Clockwork;

– Acrylic primer, varnish, paint brushes;

– Acrylic paint: white, brown;

– paper towels;

– polymer clay;

– Potal and glue Potali;

– satin ribbon;

– coffee beans;

– Melt;

– PVA glue;

– Foil.

I inspect the workpiece, looking for defects and fillings eliminate them. After drying the skin. On my billet was more master ordered 3 small holes on nizu- for greater beauty, decor

Then, in the course is the ground, I put or render it with a sponge. The soil dries very quickly, and check if everything is dry, skin in 20-30 minutes. The next step – applying acrylic paint with a sponge or sponge evenly in 1 or 2 layers with drying. The paint I take in DIY stores: waterborne acrylic for interior use. 0.8-1.0 kg buckets on long enough. On my watch, two coats of acrylic paint well dried and now akruratno, without fanaticism hides. We need a perfectly flat, smooth monotonous white surface. The skin initially the average grain size in the end, a smaller, more gentle I picked up a napkin here: solid coffee with a small inscription. My billet quarter cloth covers not fully, the handle on the big cup, I rep later.
I’ve found method allows to stick a napkin neatly, without folds or tears. The top layer of paint wipes placed face down on the file and poured a puddle of water. While the water is distributed on a napkin, dabbing her napkin neatly straighten slightly stretched it sideways. The fingertips are helping to do this quickly, but carefully.

How to make beautiful tea house

How to make tea house 1

This master class want to show how to decorate the house for tea made of plywood under the forest izbushechku without using decoupage. Master Class Time is suspended, without time to dry.
When I received and gathered her hut, her bokovinki simulating log walls, immediately created an image of the fairy house in the forest, hidden amongst mountain ash and fir trees. This idea I decided to translate. We need: purchase house from plywood, water stain (I have the color mocha) for wood, textured paste, PVA glue, acrylic paint (I korichnevvaya, carbon black, bronze), glass paint, sandpaper with different grits, masking tape, stencil acrylic contours, brush, palette knife.

Before you begin any of collecting house and see that all the slots close to the end into each other. If something somewhere bother finalizing a file 🙂 It is advisable to remember or mark which wall from which a party to avoid confusion in the future.

Mordant for wood, I chose to paint just because of the fact that it attaches to the workpiece color of natural wood, leaving visible its “structure” (or rather, the name of this “structure” in plywood – I do not know, in general, these beautiful, “natural “streaks

After drying the skins to properly collect and smoothness house. PVA glue construction wall between himself and the roof. I’m on the floor until pasting, for the convenience of further manipulation, but at the time of bonding of the floor wall insert so that they are not twisted. I fix the masking tape and rubber bands. I do not know how anyone, but I prefer a thin glue on the edges of the cracks and distribute a toothpick and spicy flat nail file 🙂 left to dry for several hours. Here, at the Fair, I met with a magic effect “glow” in the decoupage works of some artists, and have long wanted to try to apply it by hand. To do this, at the center of each face of the house and the roof I carefully hides, blowing out:

Then again, the whole house cover with stains, land and again the skins – the edges slightly, the center is strong. And so do a few times, until we reach the desired effect. Now we go to the application of decorative elements. Rowan mountain ash, but it I decided to do some framing patterns. I really like to do the bulk pattern texture paste. On the one hand this pattern stands out due to its volume, on the other – not too flashy and will not interrupt the main figure due to its color close to the color of the house. We spread the texture paste in a glass, add there a little acrylic paint, I took the brown and carbon black, so that in the end turned the color slightly darker edges of faces. Impose a stencil (I Adhesive) and causes the paste is not too flat and not too thick. Spatula for some reason it is not convenient to apply, I put a stick for ice cream A few hours later, when the paste is dry, lightly brush the paint on the plot the bronze pattern:

At this stage we can already stick to the base of a house.

Getting acrylic painting contours. You can pre-apply pencil drawing, I draw once: first osnovyne elements – green twigs and red-orange berries (such as on the roof), then supplement highlights (bronze circuit) and shades (brown contour) – both on the wall of the house.

The two sides have I done with rowan, the front and rear wall has decided to do with pine branches. To use real pine cones can be. I cut them in half with a knife, choosing the appropriate items. Please outline the location and paste the bumps. So they stuck close, grind and align the direction of bonding bumps skin. Then dorisovyvat pine branch. First again osnovyne elements – green branches and needles as they dry out a bit, complement other flowers, dried needles bronze color.

When the paint dries, pass stain again over all edges of the house, including the bulk ornament, leaving intact the main pattern to further highlight the effect of “glow” from the center faces. The whole house is covered with lacquer in several layers with drying of each layer.

Forest hut ready! To enhance the effect, you can drop of essential oil of fir, spruce, pine or cedar.

Beautiful Handmade Dress for girls

How to make a dress for girls 1

Beautiful dress for girls

Children’s fashion did not lag behind the adult, and the proof of this – many magazines, making children’s clothes. Many moms start to sew in the decree, both want to dress their child cheap, and thus – original. If you – one of those moms, you will enjoy a class on how to make a dress for girls tulip. It is very simple and looks unbanal!

For the manufacture of children’s dresses you need: two cutting cotton in different colors, red wavy rim, two decorative buttons (bigger and brighter than the standard), thread, scissors, pins and sewing machine. Everything starts with the bottom of the dress – the skirt. Carve out a rectangle of fabric long enough to skirt was not your babe in tight. In length, too, decide for yourself: ideally, the dress should be at the knee or slightly nizhe.Slozhite rectangle for the skirt half. Cut angle in two layers of dress: make it rounded. Even here you can see the details of the future tulip: rounded corners and it will flower petals. The bottom and side edges of the skirt next bend double to wrong side and Stitch. Also sew on all sides except the top-line skirts, wavy fringe. You can also use the lace or ruffles. You can sew the hem so that on the front side only the side of the teeth. Now you need is gathered top line skirts or gum paste into it. How to insert a rubber band, you probably can guess, but is gathered – a little more complicated. Dvadly necessary to bend the upper edge and stitch it, and then strung on a thread and pull it. Try to pull off so that the skirt then covered another little princess! Cutting parts for the upper part of the dress. Pattern is the easiest, because children’s clothes do not need recesses. To carve out a piece for the back and two (in mirror image, with an oblique smell) – for products forehand. Fold the back and from the front halves face to face. Secure with pins in several places. Stitch the side seam and the shoulder. Similarly, do the second and the front half. Remove the top of the front side and try to wrap halves Perda one after another. On the bottom line of the upper part (this also applies to the back, and the two halves of the forehand) stitched edging out of the ordinary or braid piping. It is more convenient to use a slash Bakey, as it is already perfectly folded in half and could well wrap the edge of the product. The same border or bias binding obsheyte neck, which passes the smell in both halves forehand. Now fold the top and bottom of the future tulip dresses together to faces were inside. Fix the joint tissues pins and then prostrochite dress. If we expand the product, it will look like an oval. However, little relief, because in places the sleeves fabric will stick. Bias binding obsheyte cuts hoses to the product looked neat. Decide which side will be closed smell, and the lower half of sew two beautiful buttons. In this place the top half, make two holes for the buttons. Obsheyte small stitches by hand, the fabric is not rastrepyvalas. Get the original children’s summer dress! For more you can sew on a button, and the upper part of the product, mentally sketching the triangle between the buttons.

How to embroider the simplest sewing machine – Step by step

How to embroider the simplest sewing machine featured

We shows you, who want to learn how to embroider a simple sewing machine.

You can embroider any lock stitch sewing machine, in which you can adjust the tension of the upper and lower thread. The most convenient – a foot Central bobbin sewing machines, which are free to work with both hands embroiderers. You can use the old machines, you inherited from grandmothers and great-grandmothers.

Modern cars are driven by an electric motor, and we need to get in the machine was manual or foot drive.

Unfortunately, embroider on a typewriter with an electric motor can not be! The fact that at low speeds (with low pressure to the pedal) of the motor shaft rotates unevenly jerks. If your machine rheostat (device in the pedal that changes the voltage) will provide the slowest rotation of the flywheel, and at the same time the needle movement is smooth, without jerks, it will be your incredible luck! My “Seagull” can not! And, frankly, I do not know of such cases, when the machine with electric allowed to do embroidery. A embroider can only be a small number of revolutions of the machine, since the movement of the embroidery frame may only be used between the needle punctures the fabric. For consistency of the hands and feet, which is sure to appear over time. And at the very beginning of your right hand will be almost constantly lying on the flywheel to make punctures tissue needle most accurately, according to the lines of the embroidery pattern.

It is important to set up and prepare the machine for embroidery. Let us deal with that!

Setting the machine to embroider

1. Remove the presser foot.

2. Lower the teeth tissue engine or completely remove them, if in the future you will be using the machine for embroidery only.

3. Adjust the tension of the upper and lower thread.

The tension of the upper thread when embroidery is weaker than the bottom, as the interweaving threads with embroidery should be on the wrong side of the fabric and not in the middle of tissue (s), as required by sewing. Knurled nut at the lowered presser foot rod is rotated counterclockwise.

Lower thread tension is adjusted by the screw on the bobbin case.

4. Install a needle that is appropriate to you. Needle number must match the thickness of the fabric and embroidery thread. (I should needle №90, as I usually do the embroidery on the average thickness of the fabric).

5. You will need round hoop with a low rim and a small diameter, which should be less than the sleeve machines or equal to that in the performance of embroidery is always enough room for torsion hoop.

Figure 6. embroidery that you want to do, it is best to run on water-soluble stabilizer .

The use of carbon paper or drawing transfer on fabric by priporashivaniya, when there is such fine material as a water-soluble stabilizer, it is the last century. Why I do not recommend these two methods?

Given the fact that now the majority of tissue in its composition contain elastic strands are stretched, they just, without fixing Dublerin or interlining (which, among other things, a further thickening of tissue), not zapyalit. It inextensible, transparent, water-soluble stabilizer allows you to embroider on and pile knitted fabric!

In addition, impaled on tracing paper embroidery pattern being transferred to the fabric with a special mixture of kerosene and tooth powder or blueprints (wherever it even take this bluing?), Is a picture that still need to guess. As I have from the very beginning of studying embroidery (as it was 25 years ago) refused priporashivaniya, I have no confirming my view photos. But, by analogy, look at the photos Skolkov lace insert on the reverse. Try to understand what kind of pattern? Bitmap priporashivaniem around and looks.

Compare now with a full weave pattern! It is quite another matter!

7. Zapyalivaem fabric with printed pattern or a seasoned stabilizer in the hoop.

On the table lay a large outer ring, on top of it – the fabric, and then put it on top of the fabric smaller inner ring, press it while pulling the fabric, carefully observing the squareness of equity and weft threads at an angle. The tension should be very tight as a drum . If the fabric is badly tense, then it will move down-up, together with a needle and suture not work. The needle thread is not grab the bottom of the shuttle will be skipped stitches.

Similarly, there is skipped stitches if the motion occurs hoop lifting of them from the surface of the needle plate.

Attention! Remember at the beginning of the work to lower the presser foot lever! This is very important! Right on the wrong side of the thread starts to zigzag, and you do not see, do not notice is a violation of stitches, yarn entanglement will not be obvious.

And never turn the wheel in the opposite direction! There will be an open thread!

You may need to weight wheel pedal to give it the necessary momentum for the passage of “dead spots.” It took me! The wheel, coming to the “dead point”, not having the right inertia for its passage, stops and starts moving back in the opposite direction, immediately breaking off the thread!

So, before you start checking:

– Correct tension of the upper and lower thread (a needle and shuttle);

– Tension of the fabric in the hoop;

– The position of the presser foot lever;

– To put the stitch length to 0.

Bring the needle under the fabric in the embroidery frame, lower the presser foot lever, turning the handwheel with your right hand on yourself, do the puncture needle and the tissue, taking the lower thread a needle, pull it up.

Secure the beginning of stitching a few strokes of the needle without moving the fabric, that is, making punctures in almost the same spot.Threads trim small scissors.

Try to scribble in a straight line, making parallel lines, spirals, ensuring uniform, beautiful stitch, without departing from the line drawing figure.

Work patiently until then, until you gain the appropriate skills. We need coordinated work of the hands and feet, and it just does not work!

Quickly working his feet and slowly moving the hoop – get small, frequent stitch. Quickly moving the hoop slowly and legs – get big, long stitches.

Remember that the beauty of your embroidery depends on your accuracy, the accuracy of the figure, the accuracy of your stitches used sutures, stitches, beauty yarn used.

Always simple embroidery pattern is much more interesting, appealing looks in the material!

And how embroidery can enrich, refine and improve your product and even to correct figure flaws, we all know.

Basic embroidery machine stitches

With the machine can perform many embroidery stitches, but it is much faster and easier than by hand.

The main seams are stitch and satin stitch roll (cordon).

The lines – this is the easiest type of embroidery: a simple line, vilyushka, loops, spiral mound.

Simple line – this is the most frequently used stitch in embroidery. Maybe self-embroidery.

This small, identical, straight stitch length only 1-1.5 mm. Simple stitch embroidery pattern obstrachivayut line, fill the space inside any embroidery fragments make flooring to increase the embroidery stitch, creating shadows with tonal embroidery, portraits.

Stitches “vilyushka”, “eight”, “spiral”, “mound” – also carried out small, identical stitches, eyelets.

Satin cushion “cordon” is also often used in embroidery. First you need to make a simple line along the contour of the figure, then take the first uncured x / w thread №10-40 in one or double folding and securing a number of blows beginning thread cover its part of the cross, the same stitch, needle punctures trying to do as much as possible close to the cushioning filaments . Overlapping spacer yarn should be so dense that it totally was not visible. And yet it is desirable to pick up the thread in the uncured color embroidery.

Properly executed satin stitch roll must be flat, convex, narrow and almost no wider than the spacer yarn (or 2 threads).

Spacer thread gives a nice rounded shape roller , while embroidery and scalloped “Richelieu” gives a solid, strong, beautiful land. By the way, for the strength and breed can make a sling spacer yarn and further processing it with a roller.

” Richelieu” – this delicate embroidery, which is the pattern of the fabric, satin steering roller, which cut kokrug background. “Richelieu” is not a breed, and Brides.

Brides – is an air line in the embroidery “Richelieu”.

“Richelieu” can be done against the backdrop of strochevoy grid.

To perform strochevoy grid needed to plain weave fabric. If the threads of the fabric in warp and weft of different thicknesses, and the calculation vyderga threads to do different to cells (holes) were square grid. After vyderga reticle of the remaining strands entwine embroidery thread, moving diagonally across the square, starting from the corner.

Glad, poluglad, slotted smooth surface – it’s also very often used in embroidery. Perform expanse of neat, closely spaced stitches arranged parallel to each other or at a slight incline.

There is a type of embroidery that I really like it – embroidery couched stitch technique. It can be a nice thick thread or twisted shnurochek, soutache lay on drawing.

With Soutache. Previously posted small loops Soutache, fixing their hand-stitched, and then made a line on the machine.

Many types of embroidery (stitching, smooth surface, Openwork, “Richelieu”, lace, appliqué, satin stitch art) in their development and implementation of high-quality extremely expand your artistic, creative possibilities.

I really wish everyone who sews and loves this business, learn how to embroider! The more the greater will be your area of interest, skills, the steeper you’ll be a master! I wish you this!

With love and respect, Thank you.

Source: livemaster