Different Types of Kurtis Designs For Girls

Different types of kurtis designs For Girls

Kurti has become the women and girls most favourite style statement to look stylish with the charming traditional look. These classy yet trendy kurtas are so comfortable that you can wear them round the clock. The best part is that you can easily modify and customise Kurtis for different looks. Available in different styles and patterns, kurta is first to picked of college going girls, working women, social women as well as of housewives for any occasion. Fashion designers are trying to keep pace with the growing popularity of kurtas and find endless options to design kurtas according to the latest trends. As a result, wearer gets ample choices, from ethnic to Indo-western style with different patterns, cuts, and designs. Some popular types of Kurtis are mentioned here; just have a look and you will get smart ways to look best in all avatars

Courtesy: Spring Collections

How to Make Baby sunhat pattern with ruffles and ties

This free baby sunhat pattern should fit a 6-12 month old; Elise is 10 months old and it’s super cute on her petite-ish noggin. Alternatively, you could easily size this hat up or down on a photocopier. Free tutorial, baby sunhat pattern and step-by-step instructions are all below. Bring on the sunshine!

Required Material:

  • Kathy’s free pattern for a baby sunhat with ruffles and ties (PDF – sized for 6-12 months)
  • 1/2 yard of fabric
  • Rotary fabric cutter, self-healing cutting mat and clear acrylic ruler
  • Good fabric scissors
  • Good iron (like Rowenta) and Ironing board
  • Thread
  • Pins (I prefer glass head pins)
  • Sewing machine

Cut your free baby hat pattern pieces
Print my free baby sunhat pattern. It’s sized for 6-12 months so you can scale it up or down as needed. You can use one fabric print or two.

Cut 4 triangles for outside crown
Cut 4 triangles for inside crown lining
Cut 4 brims (2 top, 2 lining) – cut 2 brims right side up, then flip the pattern so that you’re cutting 2 brims wrong side up
Cut 2 strips 16″ x 1″ for the ties
Cut 2 strips 25″ x 2″ for ruffle

For this tutorial you’re going to sew everything at 3/8″ seams. I usually do 1/2″ seams for my tutorials but wanted them to be a bit smaller for Elise’s baby head.

Create the outside crown and crown lining
Take four of your crown pieces. Line up two pieces, right sides together, and sew along the side. Repeat with the other two pieces.

Press seams open; they will be slightly curved. Pin the two pieces together, right sides together. Sew. You’ll now have one sewn crown piece. Press the seam open. Repeat to make the lining crown.

Create the brim
Grab your four cut pieces for your brim. Now because it’s a bit of an asymmetrical brim, be sure to match pieces together so the brim top will match your brim bottom.

Sew two pieces of the brim together to make the outside brim. Press the seams open. Repeat to create inside lining brim.

Create the ruffle
Sew pieces together on the ends, pressing seams flat. It should look like a large circle. Iron the circle in half, wrong sides together. The right side of the fabric will be on top and bottom now, and there’s now a finished edge and a raw edge. Using a basting stitch, sew two rows of stitching around the raw edge of the circle. I stop at the seams and then start again because I find it’s easier to gather (in the next step). Match the seams of the ruffle to the seams of the brim. Pin. Pull the gathering threads gently to gather the fabric into ruffles. Pull it until it’s the same size as the outside of the brim. Pin the ruffle onto the edge of the brim, raw edges together. Sew the ruffle onto the brim. Place the other brim piece on top of the ruffle piece you just sewed, basically making a ruffle sandwich with the two right sides together. Pin and sew. Turn right side out and iron. Finished brim is 18 inches circumference. Topstitch the brim near the ruffle edge. Sew the brim shut by sewing close to the inside circle edge.

Take out any basting stitches that show (yikes, I had a lot on this one …that’s what I get for sewing fast during naps).

Attach hat crown to the brim
Pin the crown onto the brim, right sides together matching seams. Sew around the crown to attach it to the brim.

On the right side of the hat, iron the seam open so the raw edges are up inside the crown. It’s starting to look like a hat now, yes? Make and attach ties
Fold ties in half and iron. Fold raw edges into that center crease. Iron again. On one end, make a triangle with the ends and fold in. Sew along the open edge of the tie to sew it shut. Repeat for the second tie. Now you’re going to attach the ties to the hat. Find the two sides of the hat. Pin the raw edge of the tie to the raw edge of the crown at the side seams. Sew back and forth a bunch of times so it’s secure. Repeat on the other side. Attach hat lining
Turn lining under 1/2″ along the raw edge and iron. Turn the lining so the wrong side is on the outside. Pin the lining inside the hat, matching seams. Put your pins on the outside of the hat because you’ll be sewing from that side to make sure it looks nice on the outside. And here’s what it looks like inside… Sew it all together, stitching close to the brim, catching the lining underneath as you go. I’m not a huge fan of blind stitching like this but it’s the way I figured out how to do it, so there you go. Suggestions welcome. Tie that hat on and go outside!

Courtesy: Merriment Design

How to sew a beach bag and sun hat for girls

we all want to update your wardrobe and add to it with bright colors! They are no exception and our little fashionista! I suggest that you make with me the summer set of accessories for girls, which is suitable for walks and for going to the beach.

Required Material:
– Cotton fabric in stripes of many colors (or any bright figure), I had the segment size 50h55 cm;
– white cotton fabric, about 60h150 cm;
– colored trim cotton fabric appliqué;
– thread color patches;
– a strip of calico size 8h60 cm, a cut on the bias,.
– zipper length 45 cm;
– glue spider’s web;
– fleece.

And tools: sewing machine, scissors, rulers, tape measure, pins and needles, a pencil or a marker for the tissue. For manufacturing applications need a paper with Teflon coating. I use a basis of the self-adhesive film, which is the torn and discarded. One of her party who, without marking, smooth and does not stick to her gossamer.

I cut out the following details, adding seam allowances:
1. The upper part – 2 pieces.
2. The lower part – 1 piece.
3. The inner portion (lining) – 1 item.
4. Handles – 2 pieces.
5. One particular size of 5×7 cm, for processing the zipper.
All parts (except №5) to duplicate interlining. So far, we set it aside and leave one detail №1 – on it will do applique.

I drew this picture, which you can either print, increasing to the desired size, or transfer from the screen and attached a sheet. Circuits cut.

1. A multi-colored patch of cloth to do with the adhesive layer. To do this, cut the adhesive cobweb right size, put on a scrap, top closing the basis of “self-adhesive” (Teflon side on cobweb) and ironing a few seconds. We give a little cool and carefully separate the fabric from the paper.
2. Then, the part of the polymer layer, translate circuit parts our application pencil and cut. Note that the details you need to translate the mirror!
3. spread the composition of all the elements in the detail of bags and glue carefully.

Sew each element of the applicator or a zigzag stitch, picking up the thread in the fabric tone.

Details, calling to each other, you need to stick and sew in order, starting with the “bottom”. For example, the first on the palms glued and sewn part of the island, then the trunks and then only twigs.

PARTS bags together, iron out the seams.

Fold in half to get the item right sides, grind and iron out the side seams.

1. We form the bottom of a bag. To this end, the side seam is aligned with the fold of the bag. Lay off from the resulting corner and 4 cm carries a perpendicular line.
2. stitched by the intended line, do not forget about the tie. Cutting off, leaving a seam allowance of 1 cm.
3. turns bedplate 8 cm wide.

Further, on the upper edge of the bag, at a distance of 2 cm from the side seams put check marks.

1. On the front side of the zipper by placing it face down, starting from the reference mark.
2. On the other hand, turn down the zipper, without reaching the reference mark, as in the photo.

1. Sew on the zipper.
2. Similarly, we make the interior of the bag: take part №3, sew the side seams and process corners, forming a bedplate. We put ready “lining” within the base, aligning the side seams.

Connecting parts of the upper edge, along with the seam lightning, leaving no gap wired about 12-15 cm for a reversing.

Everted bag through the opening.

1. reduce an into the “lining” top of the bag.
2. Leading the finishing line of the upper edge of the bag while sewing up the hole for version.

Process the end of lightning.
1. Details of the size 5×7 cm folded in half right sides and iron out sew seam.
2. We put the item on the zipper so that the seam turned to its lower side.
3. stitched by lightning and cut off the excess.
4. turn away detail on the front side.
5. Refill the open cut inside and sutured or blind stitches by hand or machine stitching.

1. Treat the handle of the bag. Details are folded along the front side, grind, and iron out the seams.
2. Screw and handle. Open sections at the ends refueled inside and ironed.

Mark location handles: this bag from the center to both sides defer to 7 cm and 3 cm down from lightning.

We sew the handle to the bag, making the tie in the form of rectangles.

We admire the result.

Print out the pattern by writing the image border in A4 sheet. Fine dotted pattern to finish without  Panama.

I cut out the details, adding seam allowances and transfer the reference marks.
Bedplate – 2 pieces.
Crown – 2 pieces of folded.
Visor – 2 pieces of folded, one piece duplicate interlining.
Additionally cut out of striped fabric 2 details size 8h15 cm size strip and 6h70 cm ruffles on the visor.

1. Details visor folded right sides, overstitch, cut close to the seam allowance duplicated parts to make incisions on rounded.
2. Unscrew and to iron visor.

One section of the strips are treated with “Moscow” seam:
Step 1. bend on the wrong side of 0.3-0.5 cm and lay a line close to the edge, cut off the seam allowance close to the line.
Step 2. bent a second time and the second lay-in stitch seam weld or 0.1 cm from it.

We prick on the visor strip, forming a counter-folds and keeping symmetry.

Tack and frill to the visor cut off its excess allowance.

1. Details of the crown folded in half, grind down the back seams.
2. iron out allowances, parts into each other, right sides, aligning seams.

1. 2. Items for folded along the front side, grind, carve corners gut-wrenching. If desired, you can make a long and then tie their bow.
3. We embed between parts of the crown, departing from the lower allowance of 0.5 cm

Tack and grind the cut on the crown, making notches on the stock.

Gut-wrenching the crown, allowance.

Double bottoms detail in the crown ring, combining the check marks. Stitch and allowance.

Gut-wrenching on the front side, allowance, guiding him to the crown.

visor ready to slice the crown, combining the control points.

To prepare a strip of the thin calico size of about 8h60 cm, a cut on the bias. Fold along ironed.

prick or shear from the visor, and allowance.

Turn down, and cut off the excess ends, leaving 1.5-2 cm.
1. Fold the ends inside.
2. is folded to the part of the crown or is pinned

Paving the line of Tuglie, securing at the same time part.

Paving the line around the perimeter of the visor and the cutout, clipping the ends.

We are tying ribbons and admire the result!

thank you!
courtesy: livemaster

How to make designer back neck blouse

Indian bride looks stunning with very beautiful designer blouse made by our well known fashion designers. If you don’t find the unique and different design of blouse by your own, there are ways through which you can create beautiful blouse without breaking your brain.

Blouse designs accentuate the looks of the wearer. For a classy and sophisticated look, try these amazing blouse designs which can win you many appreciations. Just keep in mind if you are planning on a wearing a transparent saree, it’s best to avoid front hooks or pins, since it will make your overall look very clumsy. The current trend for blouse designs is net blouses with sweetheart necklines. Any simple looking saree can look wonderful with designer blouse designs which can make you look gorgeous. Every woman is different and it’s difficult to come up with a unique fitting, so tailor made blouses is the ultimate choice. A blouse should be like your second skin, it shouldn’t be too tight nor too loose and the right fitting makes a woman very confident.

From this videos, you can learn how to make this designer blouse in simple and easy method

Bridal Designer Blouse Made Easy Cutting And Stitching:

Designer Bridal Back Neck Blouse Pattern:

Designer Back Neck Blouse Pattern:

Designer Bridal Blouse Back Neck Pattern:

Blouse Back Neck Designs:

DIY beach bag for the sea promenade

I sewed just such a beach bag, because soon the sea – this time, the magazine asks if anything new – and the two have not done anything interesting – three. Here again, “Three Nuts” for Cinderella … The trend, however …
That’s what we will say:

Well, could not you show your supervisor observer … best humor, looking at it … I ironed the bag, and he just does not reduce the eye with iron. .
Well, more to the point ..
We need:
Fabric dense -I have something like x b, or electric blue jeans – 60 cm and a width of 140
Cotton white and blue stripes – 0.5 m at 110 cm width
Sintepon density of 100 (that is, do not know, sintepon nepushisty, about 0.5 cm thick
Lining – I took the b y fabric shower curtain, which was on top in excellent form, and the bottom … well, just throw away – which I did. I think we can take Bologna, can be dome from an old umbrella, if not a little – well, I was looking for waterproof, and can in principle be anything that comes to fabric bags.
Nonwoven different thickness: very thick, that is called a hat – on the bottom of the bag, the average density in the pockets.  And appliqué cotton  and a tight – in handle.
Threads and tools – of course …
Immediately utochnyu- add: can not take it, do not look for such companions, to simplify the problem, if we take the underlying tissue a little more 1 meter – for the eyes, even in the makeup stays, and buy a suitable webbing to taste – about 1.5 meters. I had a problem that the fabric is bought for a long time and a very different bag, it is not enough to handle.Absolutely. Therefore, it is looking for the fabric, but such that it was possible to put on the finishing.

First cutting. Dimensions of parts  give allowances without taking for granted that the  allowances laid already and everywhere equal to 1 cm.  Fractional passes downwards details – any details.
From outer fabric:
panel – 58 cm x 38 cm – 2 pieces
bottom – 46 cm x 10 cm 1 piece (I had to do two pieces)
handles – 76 cm x 9 cm – 2 pieces (I – from finishing)
Lining of nepromokashki (I turquoise):
front and rear panel – 58 cm x 30 cm – two pieces
the bottom – 46 cm x 10 cm
pockets – I have two of them: 30 x 38 cm – 2 pieces. If the lining is the direction of the figure, keep in mind that the details on the pockets are folded, finished pocket is 28 cm x 18 cm, with the top edge of the pocket – fold.
Sintepon: 58 cm x 31 cm – 2 pieces
Braid or fabric for trim strips: approximately 18 cm long, 20, 23, 25, 28 and the shelf width 3 cm, 5 cm in cutting.
sewing sequence.
1. Start with a lining.
Pockets. Details pockets folded in half and one half of each glue interlining medium density, then Sew the two halves of the details, leaving the seam slit for eversion. Do not forget to cut the corners close to the line, so that the pocket was well decorated. Release, sweeping over the edge and to iron. Baste lining panel to the details so that the fold was on the top parts (pocket entrance), and the pocket was clearly in the middle of the sides with respect to the future bags and 7 cm from the upper edge:

Stitched, not forgetting to do tack at the beginning and the end. I divided the pocket into two parts – for sunscreen and tanning oil, for example …))) The second pocket is performed in exactly the same, but in 2 parts I was not shared – to leave more. I sew it on the second panel. From a small piece of outer fabric sewn pouch for your phone – its size + 2 cm in width – is at the discretion.
When the pockets are ready to connect the parts lining on the sides, allowances press them apart, do not forget to tack –  it’s important.  Then mark the center of each panel along the bottom, from the middle to put both sides at 23 cm.
Pay attention  to the pair of panels of sizes and floor: panel width = length + width of the bottom of the bottom. In other words, the panel is cut 58 cm wide, 2 of them went to see the allowances, is 56, divide in half – 28 minus 23 (the bottom half of the length). The residue was 5 cm on each side – half the width of the bottom. If such a narrow bottom not like it, or shorten it to 4, for example, see, and then you can cut out of its width of 13 cm, or add to the side panels bags at 4 cm per panel and the bottom, too, cut 13 cm. In the event of a change bag sizes Remember to count the size of all the components.
That’s mate is very important – if not then flog. At discrepancy of the size of the bag will slash-curve …
Thus, the marked out panel, marked out the middle of the length of the floor on both sides and the middle of the narrow sides of the bottom. Begin alignment with the long sides. We combine labels of means and the bottom panel, fix the beginning and the end of the bed with the marking points, shear pins. Repeat all this from the second panel and the second side of the bottom. . You can scribble  Again note:  start and finish line is necessary at combining – for allowance of the short sides of the bottom of the bag no scribbling !!!
. See the picture – it is clear that the long sides of the bottom of a line begins and ends exactly at the bottom right corner.

Now a little “piece of work”: allowance bag walls is necessary to make an incision at the exact beginning and end of the line (see photo). Once notched, short sections of the bottom right will be easy and convenient to the sidewalls Stitch – and here it is already possible to make a small tack on allowances.
On the lining, I specifically 1mm captured area (see zazhimchik?), To hedge themselves from the hole in the lining. But the outer part of the bag will not tolerate – remember: a perfect match at the corners.

Lining can be put aside and start working with the outside of the bag.
A little will go back, why start with padding. First, the exterior and interior of the bag sewn in different threads, and so as not to rearrange the thread back and forth, at first I did all the work of turquoise, and then all the work went blue. Secondly, small errors lined excusable and be corrected, the same on the outside of the bag or errors should not be, or not patches are welcome (depending on the tissue), so it is best to practice on the lining, and then sew the top of the bag. Well it is, thinking “in the course of play” …)))
The front panel of the bag lay on the table face up, take soap or disappearing pen and start rascherchivat trim from the center of the panel put the first finishing strip, skip 1 cm – the second, etc. The height of the bars is arbitrary, as you like. The only thing you should pay attention to: the highest band must be from the middle of no more than 8 cm, because pens we sew it at such a distance from the center, therefore it is desirable to take into account docking handles and the highest strips. Either make them all not higher than 25 cm, so that the strip is not docked with the handle.
Nastrachivaem strips around the perimeter, tucking sections. At the bottom of the short sections of the bag was left open.

Now rascherchivaem stitch. I took a step in the lines of 4 cm – can be less or more. On the underside of the details to make padding polyester, with the bottom sintepon does not cover the allowance for sewing the bottom and at the top it does not reach the upper edge 7 cm shear sintepon and upper part bags starting from the center -.  This is important . Smoothes out the details on the table with respect to each other and transverse shear pins (see photo). This sequence will prevent or minimize the formation and progress syntepon ugly blisters on the bag.
Stitch stitch is necessary in the face and also from the center to the edges.

That’s what happens. See photos:. Up-down allowances available without padding polyester, and the side seam allowances to close slightly sprawled synthetic padding.

This is nothing to worry about, after grinding , grabbing sintepon, parts bags we pruning it literally right up to the line, so that the seam was not on the extra thickness. Then sew the bottom just as it sewn into the lining. Just do not forget: first glue on the bottom of the piece fleece hat firmly against the bottom of the finished bags, ie 46 x 10 cm It should look something like this.:

Otutyuzhivaem all seams as the assembly of the bag.
Now, without twisting the bag and removing the lining, we put it on the bag. Oversize bags on top of 7 cm turn down, mark up from the fold 5 cm sections buckled inward and put lining sections at the top of the single cut the piping bag. At the same time put shnurochek small telephone pocket.

Otstrachivaem on the edge of the piping, completely finishing the bag.
It is possible to postpone. Details for pens, because I was thin cotton, fully taped average density and interlining hemstitch their external stitching (folding piece in half along the length, each half still in half slices go inside, stitch along the edge of the handle). Ironed.
From bags center mark up the position of the handle at a distance of 8 cm each, ie . Between the ends of the handles 16 cm from the top of the bag handles are sewn 5 cm sew like this: loop handle pointing down, the tips – up to flash a tack through the stitching single cut the piping bag, clipped allowance, unscrew the handle up and vystrachivaem rectangle mounting knobs. closing blade handle oversize the first line: clean and tight.
One pen tip on the front side in the highest match finishing strip butted. At the junction of the adhesive paste the apllikatsiyu – anchor.
Once again otutyuzhivaem bag with oparivaniem simultaneously remove steam soaps markup – and admire !!!!

The back side of the bag – it is without finishing. You can do the same thing on the right side, but I did not bother ..

Hopefully, like handbag, and someone will want to get yourself


How to make fancy curtains

First, you must select the fabric for curtains tailoring.  Beautifully will look fabric with metal overflow. Well look contrasting transitions in tone.
In the present master class puffs sewn on the cornice of 1.3 m. For this you need a piece of fabric at a ratio of one to two, or 1 to 2.5 relative to the length of the cornice.
We eaves length 1.3 m – needs a piece of fabric 3.25 +0.5 (allowance at side seams), only 3.3 m.

In width:
• 0,65 m 3-band (as in the diagram), the height of product in finished form 0.45 m;
0.83 m • 4-band products in finished form height 0.55 m;
• 1,01 m-5 strips off the shelf height 0.65 m.
Learn, please scheme. See photos.
he harvested tissue peruse for defects, check the length and width, steamed iron. The sides of the future curtains  See photos. For comfortable work and avoid errors, you need to make patterns out of cardboard.
1. №1 = 8 cm (6 cm – width webbing + 1 cm seam tape+ 1 cm volume)
2. №2 = 18 cm;
3. №3 = 15 cm. Choose a place where we are going to create your masterpiece. Ideal – a large table. It decompose and flatten stripped cloth. The fabric should lie face down.

Take the mold 8 cm wide (№1) applying it to the upper tissue slice. Now, take the curve №2 (width 18 cm), apply to have the line drawn by again drawing a line along the entire length of our fabric. Repeat this process three times. We have to be parallel to the line width: 8 cm, 18 cm, 18 cm, 18 cm Take curve №3, we are putting any of the side seams and perpendicular lines to the already drafted. We get the mesh. To make it convenient to work in the cells draw a diagonal, as shown in the photo. Take the needle and thread in tissue tone, and at the cell diagonally fasten the first puff. Stitches tacks do five – six times. Secure all puffs for this series. The next series begin to fix on the side where you’ve finished the first row whip. Follow the scheme. Third row starts where finished second whip. And so all the rows under the scheme. Be careful. This is the result of the first phase of your work. The truth is impressive? The bottom of the curtains in our master class we will process the fringe. In fact, the methods of processing weight: seam in the hem, processing piping, lace, beads …

like fabric, you need to advance to steam and smooth We are putting a fringe to the bottom edge of the curtains. We combine slices. Fabric and fringe wrong side together. Sew, Now, gently loosen the fringe on the front side. Do this for the entire length of the edge of the fringe and paving machines line. Bottom curtains ready. Look inside out – it’s perfect. It remains to handle the upper section of the curtains. Take special braid for processing top curtains. Put them to the wrong side of each other. Pre-need to hem curtains and braid 1 cm. Sew their machine stitching. Lay the second parallel line is strictly for lace center. Line lay on the front side. The ends of the thread carefully hide. Run the same parallel line on the edge of the tape. Gently pull the fabric by hand. Contractible four strands to braid. Puffs acquire a very different kind. And then, finally, the result of work. Beauty, is not it? So, this curtain looks in the doorway.