DIY Handmade No Sew Felt Flowers With Twigs

These DIY no sew felt flowers are the perfect homemade Mother’s Day gift – and the best part is, is that they’ll never wilt or die! Required Material:

  • Felt in various colors for the flowers
  • Green Felt
  • Twigs
  • hot glue gun
  • hot glue
  • scissors
  • pencil
  • buttons
  • lids or a circle template — we used 3″ and 6″ in diameter



To make a flower with button: Cut 8 round 3″ circles out of felt – 4 of one color and 4 of another color.

Fold the circle in half and in half again to create a quarter circle. Apply hot glue to the folded edges of one circle and attach it to the folded edge of another circle. Repeat until all four quarter circles are connected to create one circle.

Do the same with the second color of felt, and glue the two flowers together. Attach a gold button in the center of the flower with hot glue

To make a rose, cut a 6″ diameter circle out of felt. Spiral cut the felt about 3/8″ wide. Roll up the felt from the center outward. Affix with hot glue at the end.

To make the “mum” flowers, Cut a piece of felt 12″ x 2.5″ and fold in half. Secure the seam if necessary with little dabs of hot glue. Cut slits at the fold about 1/2″ apart. Being careful not to cut through the entire flower. Roll from one end, and hot glue together as you go.

To make small buds: Cut 3-3″ circles and fold into quarters. Glue the three quarters together into a triangle like shape.

Fold 9×2 or 12×2.5 rectangle in half lengthwise. Like a hot dog bun. Cut slits into the fold. About 3/8″ apart but not going all the way through the fold. Kind of like making fringe. But it’s on the fold. When finished making flowers, cut out leaf shapes. Affix to flowers with hot glue.  Add stick stems.

courtesy: Mommy Moment

How to Make a Delicate Red Flower Choker Necklace With Beads

Today’s tutorial will show you how to make a very beautiful seed bead choker necklace, if you are fond of beaded choker necklaces, you shall never miss this one.

Step 1: Supplies Needed to Make This Beaded Choker Necklace

  • 4mm Red Seed Beads
  • 2mm Red Seed Beads
  • 2mm White Seed Beads
  • 2mm Golden Seed Beads
  • 8x6mm Faceted Red Glass Beads
  • 2mm Silver Crimp Beads
  • Silver Bead Tips
  • Red Nylon Thread
  • Silver jumprings
  • Silver Spring Clasp
  • Long Nose Pliers
  • Scissor
Step 2: Make the Basic Unit of the First Flower Layers

1st, prepare a long piece of red nylon thread, slide a silver crimp bead, a bead tip, a 2mm white seed bead, two 2mm red seed beads, a 2mm golden seed bead, two 2mm red seed beads, two 2mm white seed beads, a 4mm red seed bead, a red glass bead, a 4mm red seed bead, and twelve 2mm golden seed beads onto the thread;

2nd, cross the thread through the 4mm red seed bead, red glass bead, and 4mm red seed bead pattern, just like the following picture shows;

3rd, tighten the thread to finish the first basic flower layer;

4th, keep adding beads in the same way.

Step 3: Finish All the First Flower Layers

1st, repeat step 1 to finish all 16 flower layers;

2nd, slide two 2mm white seed beads, two 2mm red seed beads, one 2mm golden seed bead, two 2mm red seed beads, one 2mm white seed bead, a sliver bead tip, and a silver crimp bead onto the thread;

3rd, cross the thread back through the previous beads like picture shows.

Step 4: Make the Basic Unit of the Second Flower Layers

1st, add two 2mm white seed beads, three 2mm red seed beads, one 2mm golden seed bead, one 4mm red seed bead, one 2mm golden seed bead, three 2mm red seed beads, and two 2mm white seed beads onto the thread and cross the thread through the third to fifth golden seed bead of the first flower layer;

2nd, tighten the thread to make a seed bead flower petal;

3rd, add two 2mm white seed beads, three 2mm red seed beads, one 2mm golden seed bead, one 4mm red seed bead, one 2mm golden seed bead, and three 2mm red seed beads onto the thread, and cross the thread through two 2mm white seed beads of the first petal and a 2mm golden seed bead of the first flower layer;

4th, tighten the thread to make the second seed bead petal.

Step 5: Finish the First Pattern of the Second Flower Layers

1st, repeat step 3 to finish all the five seed bead flower petals;

2nd, once all five petals are finished, cross the thread back through the nearby seed beads like picture shows;

3rd, add two 2mm white seed beads, three 2mm red seed beads, one 2mm golden seed bead, and a 4mm red seed bead onto the thread, and cross the thread through the golden seed bead on the last petal.

Step 6: Make the Second Pattern of the Second Flower Layers

1st, tighten the thread to connect the first and second pattern;

2nd, add three 2mm red seed beads and two 2mm white seed beads onto the thread and cross them to the nearby golden seed beads like picture show;

3rd, tighten the thread to finish the first petal of the second flower;

4th, make the other four petals of the second flower in the same way.

Step 7: Finish All the Petals of the Second Flower Layers

1st, repeat step 3 to step 5 to finish all the second layer of the 16 flower patterns;

2nd, cross the thread back through the last few seed beads like picture show;

3rd, cross the thread through the lass petal like picture shows, and then add five 2mm golden seed beads onto the thread.

Step 8: Make the Basic Unit of the Third Flower Layers

1st, tighten the thread to make a tiny golden seed bead petal;

2nd, add two 2mm golden seed beads to connect the nearby two petals together;

3rd, add five 2mm golden seed beads onto the thread, cross the thread golden seed beads and 4mm red glass bead on the second petal, then tighten the thread to make the second tiny golden seed bead petal.

Step 9: Finish the Third Layer of All the Flower Patterns

1st, repeat step 7 to finish all the third layer of the first flower pattern;

2nd, cross the thread through the connecting beads to the second flower pattern;

3rd, finish all the third layers of the flower patterns in the same way.

Step 10: Complete the Red Seed Bead Choker Necklace

1st, cut off extra thread and close the crimp beads and bead tips;

2nd, add a spring clasp to one bead tip and a jump ring to another bead tip.

Step 11: Here Is the Finished Seed Bead Choker Necklace
courtesy: PandaHall

Vase with flowers – Mother’s Day Gift (Tutorial)

Mother’s Day gift – flower vases made in the art of paper cutting.

Long I stare at work Zulfiya Dadashov. Not so long ago bought a knife for cutting, tried to cut a Christmas tree for its MC. Cut I liked it, so I decided to do the work for the competition in this technique.

Author template:

Required Material:

  • paper white and pink,
  • knife for cutting,
  • a ruler and a tool for creasing,
  • scissors,
  • shaped punches,
  • glue,
  • pencil,
  • ribbon, rhinestones.

The finished scheme did not seek, I decided to draw itself. I admit, it did not work the first time.

He translated his drawing on thin paper and secure it with a stapler on white paper to cut, folded in half.

Cut parts with a knife. As the experience in the cutting I did not so much, it was hard to cut curved elements.

Then cut out the contour of the vase.

Based vases necessary to line 3 (probigovat) and folded on it, for the construction stability.

Top between the two halves of the vase paste leaf and cut it in a semicircle. This place is a decorative elements – flowers.

For the manufacture of each flower will need 3 different sizes of paper square. You need to add these squares in half and draw half of a flower.

I cut blanks for 5 flowers. Unbent their petals. And then glued blanks flowers with each other.

In addition the finished flower pasted dyrokolny little flower.

Next, the leaves made by a hole punch. And sticking them on top of the vase (pasted on a sheet).

After this has placed the flowers and glue them.

Midway flowers can be decorated with rhinestones.

At the bottom of the vase tied bow, covering only one half of the vase.

Hope you like this tutorial.

How to make a bouquet for mom – Step by step

A bouquet for mom: Mother’s day special handmade gift for mom.

Materials and tools:

  • Printer paper or colored paper
  • Stationery knife
  • Scissors
  • Glue stick
  • Stapler
  • Ruler
  • Pencil

Cut a square of paper 3 10×10 cm.

The stapler fastening them together at the corners.

Draw rounded corners.

Draw a spiral. The width of the spiral coil approximately 2 cm.

Draw helices on elements for cutting.

Getting cut.

Cut the spiral.

cut corners.

Get 3 equal parts.

Make rosettes.

For the leaves need to cut out a rectangle of 10h16 cm.

The folded in half along the long side.

Draw a shamrock and scrapie nesolkih paper in places where there is no pattern.

First cut leaf veins.

Then – along the contour.

Take the size 9h16 cm paper.

Displace shaped horn and glue edge.

Glue 3 flowers together.

Glue the leaves and flowers.

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Beautiful Chocolate poufs bag

Chocolate poufs bag 1

Delicious chocolate case for phone I turned, make it easy and simple. Remember poufs “Flower”? That they are, but on the other side. This scheme shrinks exactly two times. Based on this, we measure their phone, multiply by two measurements and the devil on the fabric rectangle.

1×1 grid

  contractible square   contract all little corners in the pile. fix string knot  contractible next square  continue until the end  And then came the moment of truth! Overturn and see … chocolate. Flowers are made ​​of the same material and glue. How to make flowers, read  Then sew the bottom and the side seam. The upper edge turns. sew and handle top  Evert on the front side and enjoy the new holster!

How to make filigree Jewellery – Step by step

Making filigree jewellery 1

For anyone who thinks this is very difficult, time consuming – yes, time consuming – yes. But it is not difficult! I think many people simply do not realize all the possibilities of plastic, it stops them.

First a little about the style.

“The word filigree derives from the Latin – thread – grain. laconic and simple, it points to the constituent elements of art. Reflects the technique, process. Scan – from old Russian “Scat “-” ssuchivat “,” twist “yarns. filigree based on formation of decoration by smooth, ribbed or twisted wires made ​​of metal (copper, silver, gold). Used as circular in cross section and the flattened wire. Combination of different wire cross-sectional ornament created using repetitive or alternating elements given rhythmic pattern. grain is used for emphasis, the additional funds mean “rhythm.” ” Ornaments in Russian and Eastern traditions have common Byzantine roots. But Russian filigree different multi-layer, density, fineness and frequent using filigree decoration without the metal base (Transversal filigree). In the east the same filigree jewelry art decor serves mainly to massive metal surfaces. It is more a single layer, pattern less complex and tenuous. It is also very popular large beads with filigree. Indian filigree as Indian cinema – is generally a separate song) Overloaded pattern, particularly valued gold. The most impressive look patinated filigree products since on a dark background lace pattern noticeable. In a figurative sense filigree sometimes referred to simply as some very fine or small the job. However, then, the very name of “filigree” there is no notation of any material , these threads and grains must be made) So no one will prevent us from doing this out of plastic and rightfully called filigree.

Generally no obligation to imitate metal, delicate and of itself is good,
but it still gives a shine additional effect of volume, so the master class will be
for the production of “metal” filigree. Making things for this master class cost me half an hour (photographing and drinking tea does not count.

For the production will need this:

  • Plastic two colors
  • Gel
  • cutting tool (knife, blade, etc.)
  • Toothpicks
  • Needle
  • Metal Powder First of plastic.

I rarely use plastic “straight from the pack.” Always mix. In the course of going and Fimo, and Scalpay, and CERN.
The proportions depend on what I need plastic consistency. Likewise, the colors I prefer nameshivat itself. For delicate items need plastic soft enough, but not as much as the software. As for the color: it all depends on what kind of metal you want to simulate. The metal powder is selected accordingly (it happens under the silver, gold or bronze, sold in art stores, departments for restoration). You can use as plastic Metallic and without. If you will take his money, I advise you not to take the “naked” color. Admixed with the little silver metallic gold. Silver from this is not going anywhere, but shade is more natural. This master class is considered an imitation of bronze. * gold filigree rarely patinated, simply because gold does not oxidize easily, so I do not really like it, a lot of patterns and effect of zero. It is better if you work for are mixed plastic that will be as close to the color of the metal. This will add more naturalistic. One color – for the basics – dark, the other – for the very pattern –
light. In light if desired can be mixed metal powders, so it will be more shine (pictured below color plastic for comparison before and after mixing. But it is not necessary since in the process most of the plastic would be all the same under a layer of powder.

His plastic material will not lose even if it mix with a fair amount of powder.
Therefore, all balances after work can be safely mixed and again put to use.

These are thin rope can roll out of plastic, and it is not the limit. But do not worry, you will not need these. For with the human eye, too, has its limits, and the product must be seen without a magnifying glass. But these and still have a thicker roll:

Here is the same rope. But flattened version looks much thinner work piece. It is due to such a profile and an effect of elegance. Thus he dialed pattern – if you look at the side – will have a decent height. And hence, the strength.

Prepare for rope pattern:

To do this, a first roll of

plastic (that light) and then rolled several times in the metal powder. Rope amenable to the same method as the sausage. Ie you can roll thicker, and then gently stretch the ends to get a very thin piece of string. Before you continue to work with rope, ride it on a smooth clean surface. So you will achieve this metallic luster. From these blanks have to do is: 

As a rule, smooth flat profile goes for contours and rims, and a twisted rope (often too flat) – for internal patterns.But it all depends on your ideas – you can never use a twisted piece of string, and confine smooth (different thickness. You can use another way to get more ..version. To do this you need to take a dark plastic, make him some element and then rub the powder metal places that should shine. 

This can be done simply with a finger or a soft brush. Best of all, this method is suitable for the manufacture of a large flat twisted rope (which is used in the rims). The most time consuming in the process – does exactly the workpiece. Because any curvature immediately gives the material. Metal wire after rolling is ideal for its entire length, there are no places where it would be thicker or thinner. Plastic also capricious, reacts to the slightest tap. Therefore, when you twist and ivy rope, hold the element in hand so that it just fell out, ie even without pressing the plastic. Note – nothing then you will not be sanding trim. Best of all, if you flatten the rope glass (suitable and transparent plastic ruler). Transparency help control thickness. After obvalivaniya in powder rope to anything not stick, so no problems will arise. Even if the result of flattening you are not happy, you know that it is fixable. Just gently pull out the places

After the blanks patterns are ready, can be taken as a basis. It is made ​​of a dark plastic. The substrate may be a bead, and the convex and flat. In the latter two cases it is important that the thickness be uniform everywhere.

Thicker than 2 mm do not appropriate, because then with rims have tight.

The rim, directly adjacent to the substrate must be greater than its not less than a millimeter.
Better slightly more.Because the internal pattern must not rise above the rim (if it is not layered filigree). And sometimes the pattern and located just below the rim. The very rim can be single, and may contain several turns of different verёvochek. In this case I used a flat profile and a flat piece of string. But before you attach the rim to the base (which is the first thing you should do), you need to burn the base slightly. Literally 1-2 minutes. Actually, I could write a whole laudatory ode phase firing, because it allows the material to create miracles. And the secret of plastic filigree rather its careful execution consists in gradual firing. While the base is baked, you are ready to “solder”.

To this mixed gel met. powder. This mixture is required for flooding seams.

Themselves parts are attached to the base of a conventional transparent gel. His need to apply a thin layer on the rim base, making sure that the rim is not warped, ie was perpendicular to the surface. Then again, followed by a brief firing. Then you can attach to the rim of the extra rope if necessary. They may be the same height or lower smooth or twisted.

Note – the seams should not be visible. This is followed by opreratsii laid out the internal circuit. It’s something like for example the framework in which you will then create a pattern. Most often, the contours are smooth. This creates a beautiful contrast with the inner twisted wire. It would be good to have on hand a preliminary sketch of what you are doing. With filigree without this hard. You can even advance to put on paper all the patterns, and then transfer them to a plastic base (at least in the art of jewelry is well taken. If you’re not sure of the eye and are afraid to miss – can on the basis of a pencil cause lines that then need to walk gel (the toothpick tip – a great tool for drawing. You can not smear the gel base, and the very detail. True, it requires great care.
Transferring small parts on the basis of how: the toothpick tip dunk in the gel and stick to it part. You can not smear the gel base, and the very detail. True, it requires great care.
Transferring small parts on the basis of how: the toothpick tip dunk in the gel and stick to it part.
Just put your fingers detail is sometimes difficult. After the circuit is laid out – again a short firing. Again – 1-2 minutes, no longer need. Next comes the hard work – the lay out the pattern. In this gel should be applied not only based on the elements underneath, but where parts in contact with the circuit. If you are working without a sketch, then try to make the symmetrical parts simultaneously. Just put them together and to the substrate. The fit of parts within the contour by using all of the same toothpick, but dry, without the gel, as well as with a needle if you want to advance the tip of the element between other elements. When the item is put on the foundation, In no case do not press down her finger! A bit of a pattern, as you understand, it is made ​​up of small variously bent verёvochek. The elements are as follows: It’s a classic.
There are plenty of other, more clever, it is for those who will enter into the taste. They still are called in their own way, but this I’m not going to fool you. If you want to use some sort of insert, it must be pre-baked. Pattern around the insert directly executed after insertion is fastened to the base. The insert must be placed in the rim (in the gel).Then with the help of gel attached to the base. Remember about the seams. Next, a short firing again. If he wants to imitate jewelry knurling on the rim, then the top of the rim to put a thin circular piece of string (in gel), as shown in the photo on the right, then the needle to make the incision.  I used a dark plastic, but you can just take a roll in powdered. If you do it out of the dark, you should go with a brush met. powder on the rim. Then lay out the remaining pattern After that you need to perform the finest job – to make grain. To do this, you take a piece of string (thicker and thinner), roll in powdered, cut blade blanks in different sizes, and then rolled into balls. It is not difficult, but for a long time. To the balls well glistened fingers should be a little dunk in the powder. And then you place the balls on your product. On the gel, mixed with the powder. As a rule, the beads are placed at the junctions or where the tips of the elements formed are not very aesthetically pleasing and generally where the eye pleasantly. After that, the product comes into the final firing. For 20 minutes. All holes – if they are in the product, you need to plan in the sketch and the surrounding elements in the form of a ring. You can drill and after firing, and can be in the beginning, before baking basics. The plastic “metal” filigree varnish is not covered. This immediately destroy all the metal effect. But the insert, if necessary, and can be very Lacko. For perfectionists: repeatedly go over the finished piece of filigree fine suede. This will give extra shine.

Small bonus for overpower to the end:

If you need a lot of the same elements as a ringlet, there is reception, taken from the same jewelry practices.

Screw a rope on something round, a suitable diameter, gives the plastic “cool”, and then cut along the blade of the resulting spring. And get a bunch of identical blanks for rings:

And finally:

Apart from the dry powder can be used with a metal powder mixture of wax-based.
In that case, all of the paste is rubbed after baking, and then in an oven for a few minutes.
However, it is less like a metal than a dry powder. Incidentally, the metal powder can obvalivat all sorts of details. Acrylic no comparison on the effect does not go with the powder. Powder gives a completely flat surface. If you are on the burnt-based thin smear gel, mixed with a lot of powders, after baking it will look like brushed metal.