How to Make Cardboard Corner Shelf / Rack

This tutorial shows how to make step by step cardboard corner shelf / rack / Organizer.
Cut an right angled isosceles triangle of cardboard of sides 13 inch and hypotenuse 18 inch (take 9 such triangles) Now, cut 18 stripe of cardboard of size (13 inch * 2 inch) Next,cut 9 stripe of cardboard of size (19 inch * 2 inch ) Now, take 3 triangles and glue them one over other to make one tough triangle.

Take two pieces of cord of lenght 5 feet and put one end of both the cord in the center holes (hole at the right angled corner) of the 3 trays and the other ends in the other 2 sides hole of the trays

How to Make Silk Thread Ribbon Bangle at Home

Explained how to make silk thread bangle using ribbon and beads. Required Material:

  • Ribbon (1cm or below)
  • Silk thread bangle

Beads Trim ribbon like this and glue it.

Let it dry.

Here is the finished bangle.

How to sew a bright summer dress for girls “Strawberry ice cream”

Soon, many will go to such a long-awaited vacation! Someone close to the sea, some to the country! And to this wonderful time, of course, we need to thoroughly prepare! We always want that to our girls look the most beautiful and fashionable, and with it, their clothing was easy and convenient, and the tissue from which it was sewn genuine.
I assure you, create, sew the perfect dress their girls to the power of many! And I invite you to a workshop on self-tailoring summer beach dresses for girls of any age! In such a nice light dress can make a leisurely stroll along the sandy beach or go boldly into a small sea voyage on a boat!
And how to spend days of fun at sea under such a bright hot sun without a hat? I propose to make a simple partial scarf with elastic in the kit to our dress.

Let’s get started:
Required Material:
The basic cotton fabric. I chose this merry pretty popular cotton charming Morozhenko.
Fabric companion cotton, for some items and decor of our dress.
Thread cotton fabric tone.
Children’s T-shirt for making patterns.
Elastic narrow 0.5 cm and 1.5 cm wide.
Tape measure.
Sewing machine.
Iron.
Scissors.
Safety pins.
Tracing paper.
Crayon or marker for the tissue.
Now it is a very fashionable dress with such a romantic flounce at the shoulders. It’s something we are going to sew. Dress, in my opinion, is not difficult, but very interesting and spectacular! Imagine how charmingly will sway in the wind shuttlecock. Also, we will have an asymmetrical bottom and unpretentious ruffles.

1. Construction of a pattern
Since my workshop is intended for all those who are unprofessional sews clothes, I decided to give you not finished the pattern and not the one that will have a long and hard to build, and an option to many easily sewed a dress their baby. So, take the baby t-shirt that sits perfectly on the child (preferably not too tight), folded in half, back inside, draw out a pencil. Note the line of the armhole and neck. We get here a dress before.

Now we pattern. Pattern we will be unified for both forehand and backrest product (of course, to some extent, this is not entirely true, but it is possible, most importantly do not sew the back to back, let it be a little loose, especially since the idea model allows, then armhole not will pull). I traced the side, slightly extending it for the convenience of the child, he said the waistline, neck draw a new line, as we will cut with flounce. Bottom draws a semicircle inside – it before, outside – it will back the product. Cut out the pattern, that’s what happens.

For this the pattern to create basic patterns before and back our future dresses.

2. Cutting (Items proposed in accordance with the size of the child’s growth on 98 cm., Depending on the variation of parts dimensions can be modified).
Prior – 1 pc.
The back – 1 pc.
2 parts of the shuttle base fabric by 70 cm long. And a width of 9 cm.
2 parts of the shuttle companion tissue 70 cm. And a width of 10 cm.
1 part for the lower part before the excised semicircle and a length of 50 cm, a width at its widest point to 8 cm.
2 armholes piping forehand and backrest (cutting obliquely) and a length of 21 cm and a width of 4 cm, including allowances.
Gum for the shuttle, narrow, 60 cm long and gussets, wide and 8-10 cm long.
1 gusset piece for a length of 40 cm, a width of 25 cm (volume 48 cm head).
1 item for registration gum 10 cm long and 4 cm wide.
2 strips 70 cm long and 90 cm wide and 2 cm, for decoration and dresses the bottom gusset.
Sam all the slices and dress hem – 1.0 cm.
Impose our patterns on the fabric is pinned in several places, so as not to move out draw out the pattern, cut out.

3. Tailoring dresses
So, to start all the details. The lower part of the flounces, the lower part of the forehand and the decor strips (for the length of two sides) is treated with role-seam. If you do not have such an opportunity, and bends over the edge.
First of all, I would like to draw the lower part of the prepayment. Take the lower part of the strip and for decoration, these parts on upper edge, namely paving two parallel lines at a low tension of the upper thread, contractible yarns on the lower pulling simultaneously (in this case obtained assembly). Shear and grind 2 parts before. Remove the padded for assembly seams. Allowances press out up, we make fun decorative stripes on the front part, as in the photo, and at its center along the entire length. Remove the padded on the strip for assembly seams. That’s what we do: in front of little shorter dresses back, and this simple effervescent bottom
Now just issue the backrest down, folded the allowance at 1 cm, ironed.

We perform the side seams of our products. Gut-wrenching, iron out the seams

We proceed to the processing of armholes. Every piping folded along the right side out. Folded piping pin and stitch shear armholes. Oversized cut close to the weld line, the piping wrench on the wrong side edges, armhole defer 0.5 cm.

Grind short sections shuttlecocks, their iron out. Impose shuttlecock from the main tissue of a shuttlecock companion tissue. Determine the middle shuttle and before dress pin up to a distance of 1.5 cm from the top to the gum. Grind down, leaving room for threading elastic bands.

Our future shuttlecock. We put the gum, collect and distribute evenly. Zastrachivaem place threading gum. Our dress is ready!

4. Sewing scarves
Take a rectangle of fabric for our scarves, overcast edge. Tuck hem around the perimeter of the inside-out, ironed. Take a decorative strip of cloth, to pin up on the edge of the front face of our scarves.
Take the box to gum, long sections of grind, gut-wrenching, gum paste. We fix and stitched around the edges.

Now we collect our scarf on short sections (I prefer the Christmas tree), by inserting between our gum, and the top anchoring, ie stitched by. Our scarf is ready!

Here’s a set we turned! By the beach season ready! Sea met!

Friends, thank you for your attention!
courtesy: livemaster

How to Make Different Kinds of Sleeves

Sleeves are such an important part of clothes as it is one of the first things you see in a garment. They should fit properly and be comfortable to wear as well. Sleeve styles vary greatly with time and fashion.

Fashions of sleeves come and go. One moment a particular sleeve may be in fashion but then they disappear completely for decades to resurface later and become a rage again. I remember wearing loose puff sleeves in my teenage years as it was in fashion; now I cannot imagine wearing them, one because it absolutely kills my body shape and two they are luckily not in fashion

How to Sew Two-layer Latin Dance Skirt

This is a simple skirt, which can be made with low to intermediate sewing skills. Total costs: about 15 euros.

I apologize in advance for the poor quality of most of my pictures. My camera had a lot of difficulty with photographing black fabric.

Step 1: The Pattern

Of course, first, you need to make your pattern. Thankfully, this is super easy. You can use the figure as a guide. So here’s how to make the pattern.

First, you need the hip measurement of the person you’re making the skirt for. My friend is very small and has a hip measurement of 84 cm. Since the skirt is made of lycra which is very stretchy, the actual skirt needs to be smaller. I estimated that a skirt circumference of 70 cm would be OK. I will call this 70 cm the hip measurement from now on. You also need to decide on a total length. Following the example of the skirt in my photo, I chose a total length of about 40 cm. Note that this pattern does not include seam allowances.

The skirt consists of two parts. Two trapezoids at the top, which I will call the base, and a wide, hanging part, which is made from four circles, which I will call the frill.

The base consists of two trapezoids, where the back part has a bit of extra fabric at the bottom. This is in place to make sure that the bum of the dancer stays hidden while dancing. The top width of the pieces is hip/2 ( =35 cm), and the height is the total length/2 ( =20 cm). The extra length is about 5 cm, depending on the bum of the wearer. The bottom of the trapezoids is a bit (about 3 cm for each panel) wider than the top edge. This will stop the skirt from riding up.

The frill is made out of four circles, with a circle cut out of the center, as shown in the figure. The black circles need to be a bit smaller than the blue ones, but they must have the same inner radius since the inner edge will connect to the base. The inner circumference of each circle (c0) must be 1/2 of the hip measurement. This means that the inner radius (r0) must be r0 = c0/(4π) = c0/12.6. So for me, r0 = 5.6 cm. The radius of the blue fabric needs to be 20 cm longer, so r2 = 25.6 cm. The black fabric must be 3 cm shorter, so r1 = 22.6 cm.

Step 2: The Fabric

It is easiest to draw a rough sketch to get an idea of how much fabric you will need. Key point: do not confuse radii and diameters! If you make a skirt with the same sizes as me, then you should have plenty if you get 60 cm of blue (at 140 cm Wide) and 1 m of black. I got 1 m of both.

I got a light quality lycra. Try to get the blackest black you can, and a color that really pops for the lower layer. Bright green, red, or even a glittering fabric would be really cool. It’s an accent, make it stand out!

There is a lot of lycra available online, but in the end, I got it at my local fabric market. I prefer to see and feel my fabric, so there are no surprises in the thickness, color, and quality.

Step 3: Drawing

You will need a piece of dressmaker’s chalk, a cup of water, and a lot of pins and patience. Lycra is slippery, which makes is tricky to work with. If you dip the edge of the chalk in water before drawing a line, it will release a lot more chalk, making the drawing easier.

My lycra is reasonably thin because I wanted the frill to be light. Due to this, I decided to make my base out of two layers. So draw both pieces of the base twice, or once on folded fabric. If you work on folded fabric, you need to pin the two layers together, as shown in the picture.

You will also need two circles of each color, with the right radio (black smaller than blue). I did this by drawing a dot at the place where I wanted my circle, and moving my tape-measure around that dot to draw a circle, as shown in the figure. Also, draw the inner circle with radius r0.

Cut all the pieces (2x front panel, 2x back panel, 2 black circles, and 2 blue circles). Leave a 1 cm seam allowance around the base. Do not leave seam allowance around the inner edge of the circles, or the circumference will be too small. Instead, leave a small allowance around the outer edge. Lycra will not fray, so you will not need to hem the outer edge frill. Cut a straight line from the outer edge of the circles to the center. The figure shows the pieces you now have.

Step 4: Making the Base and the Frill

Sew the front pieces of the base to the back pieces, good sides together. I used an overlock machine with the most stretchy stitch. If you are using a regular sewing machine, make sure you are using a stretch needle and a stretch stitch. Sew the pieces together.

Now turn one of the two bases right side out, and put it inside the other one, so all the good sides are touching. Sew around the top edge to close it off, and turn the good sides outward. Now only the lowest edge of the base is bare, and the edges of the top and sides are neatly tucked away.

For the frill: Put the good sides of both colors together and sew the cut edge as shown. Lay them on top of each other, with both bad sides facing down (good side to bad side). Pin them securely together.

Step 5: Putting It Together

Now comes a lot of pinning. Fold the two layers of the base inward, and lay the top edge (or inner edge) between them, as shown in the closeup. Do not be stingy with pins, this will help a lot. With rough stitches, hand bastes it all together. Like I said, lycra is slippery, and this is a place where the stability of the basting will be a big help.

Using a regular sewing machine and a stretchy stitch, sew they base and the grill together.

And that’s it! You’re done. You made yourself a beautiful skirt.

Step 6: Look at Her Shine!

I’m happy with the result, and my friend is even happier. She’s a wonderful dancer, and the skirt enhances it. Her dancing partner modeled an accent for his own outfit from the scrap of blue that was left over.

Thanks!

courtesy: Frivolica

 

DIY: Handmade Paper Mache Pencil Holder

Have you got loads of newspaper lying around? Are you feeling crafty? Well, you have come to the right place.

In this tutorial, I will be telling how you can turn your old newspapers into something good-looking and useful. So follow along.

Step 1: Required Material
  1. Loads of newspaper (obviously)
  2. Flour (to make glue)
  3. Water (to make glue and paper mache clay)
  4. A bottle or anything similar (you will see why, later.)
  5. A bowl
  6. PVA Glue
  7. Paints and brushes
  8. Paper shredder (optional)
  9. Hand blender (optional)

And that’s it.

Let’s get making.

Step 2: Shredding Newspaper to Make the Container

Start by shredding the newspaper in 1 inch wide strips. You don’t need a lot, these stripes of newspaper will only be used to make the container of our pencil holder, which will not be very thick.

But you can shred a lot because we will be needing them in later steps anyway.

Step 3: Making Paper Mache Glue

Traditionally the glue used to make paper mache crafts is made by mixing flour and water. and we will be using the same in this project. But you can always use regular glue if you want to.

The glue made out of flour tends to be messy, but it adds to the fun.

To make paper mache glue, take a cup of flour in a mixing bowl and gradually start adding water in it while constantly stirring it. Keep doing it until the mixture turns into a smooth paste. The paste should be neither too runny nor too thick. Click here to watch the video. (Don’t worry, the link will open in new tab.)

TIP 1: Don’t make a lot of paper mache glue at once, because after a day or two, the glue will not be as sticky. So only make as much as you will be able to use in one day.

TIP 2: Use something strong to stir the mixture. I learnt this the hard way, after breaking one spatula.

Step 4: Making the Container

To make the container, dip the strips of newspaper in the paper mache glue, once the whole strip is covered in the glue, remove the excess and start laying it on a bottle or any other such thing as shown in the picture above (numbered as 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5). Lay the strips perpendicular to one another in order to give the container more strength. (Click here to watch the video.) Keep doing this till your container is two layers thick (see the picture numbered as 6). Then leave it for drying overnight. On the next day, carefully remove your container from the bottle. You may have to use some force, but be gentle, you don’t want to break it. If necessary, use some prying tool to get it out. Don’t panic if it breaks slightly, It will be fixed in a moment, but try not to break it in two or three pieces. At this stage, your container should look somewhat like the one shown in picture above, numbered as 7 and 8.

After removing the container from the bottle, start covering it with newspaper stripes once again. This time, you have to make it thick enough so it is no more fragile.

One important note: let your container dry after every layer, otherwise molds could ruin your pencil holder. I dried mine in the sun, but if the sun is not in your favour, use your oven. Keep it in a warm oven and leave the door slightly open so water vapour could easily escape.

Step 5: Become Paper Shredder Once Again and Make Paper Mache Clay

By now you may be wondering that the container looks so ugly. Yes you are right, it is. But it will no longer be, get prepared to make it look beautiful.

Start shredding more newspapers, but this time shred in smaller pieces. If you have a paper shredder, go ahead and use it, it will make your work a lot easier because you need a lot of shredded newspaper. Keep the shredded paper in a large bowl.

After shredding, add water to fill the bowl and let the paper soak in water for around 12 hours, it will make the process of making paper mache clay much easier.

Now that the paper has become soggy, start destroying it. (Take a look at the picture above or watch the video linked above.). Take your time and turn the paper into smooth pulp. Make sure there are no lumps in the pulp, because they will trouble you afterwards.

When you have turned the whole thing into pulp (like in picture numbered as 6 above), remove the excess water by straining and squeeze the pulp. You just need the pulp to be moist, there should be no water dripping from it.

Once you have got your pulp out of the water, add some paper mache glue to it and mix well. I added the pulp and paper mache glue in about 3:1 ratio. you don’t have to be precise.

If done correctly, you should now have your paper mache clay ready for next step. Your paper mache clay should look somewhat like bread dough.

Step 6: Time to Get Crafty

Now that you have made paper mache clay, use it to sculpt around the container using your imagination. Use plenty of paper mache glue to make your sculpture smooth. I made my pencil holder look like a tree trunk (take a look at the images above), but you can get creative and make something else.

After you have done sculpting, dry it in the sun for at least 7 to 10 days before proceeding further. It has to dry completely not only from outside but also from inside otherwise molds will find their way to your pencil holder, and I don’t think you want that. So make sure it dries completely.

When I was making my pencil holder, the sun was not in my favour, so I had to use my oven to dry it.

You can do it too, Keep your pencil holder in warm oven and leave the door slightly open so the water vapour can escape.

TIP: Make sure there are no cracks tn your sculpture as they will reduce its strength. Fill any cracks with paper mache clay and plenty or paper mache glue.

Step 7: Paint It

Now that you have completed sculpting your pencil holder, let’s paint it to make it look even better.

But before painting it, cover it in a layer of PVA glue. Any PVA glue will work. Mix one part of PVA glue in one part water, and apply it on your pencil holder. It will make your pencil holder stronger.

Once the glue has dried, go ahead and paint your pencil holder according to your imagination using acrylic paint. Acrylic paint, apart from looking good, will seal your pencil holder so no moisture can enter and ruin it.

You can use any other paint if you want to but, you will have to seal your pencil holder with some sort of acrylic sealant to make your sculpture weather sealed.

Now go and make your own, and if you have any questions, feel free to ask me. Best Of Luck.

DIY Five Pointed Rainbow Prism Lamp

The Five Pointed Prism lamp is made up of ten geometrical panels, which makes a prism, displaying the same repeated pattern all the way through giving out beautiful rainbow colours around your chosen space

I use only LED lighting in my designs to contribute to keeping the environment friendly.

Step 1: Begin Drawing/Designing Geometric Shapes

I begin by drawing my design on paper with rough sketches. I really enjoy geometrical shapes so I wanted to design one. I have had many failures on this design as I was not getting the mathematical measurements correct but I got there in the end. This is then drawn in illustrator to make this mathematically correct. I then send this file to a local laser cutter company to get these cut out of birch wood.

Step 2: Staining, Attaching Acrylic Film to Templates

When the 10 templates have been cut (5 large and 5 small) to make a prism shape, I then stain the wood in a rich dark chocolate colour and leave to dry.

To get the wonderful colours, I use an acrylic iridescent fil.

Adding the acrylic film:

I then cut out the correct size shapes out of iridescent acrylic film by hand, This acrylic film is super colourful, covering the whole rainbow spectrum, purples, pinks, oranges, greens, blues and from metallic and copper colours, depending where you view the material from as this changes in an instance from one angle to the next

This is then stuck to one side of the wooden templates.

I have to spray the wooden template to set the film as it has an adhesive so this stops any dust attaching while its sticking to the wood.

As seen in the images, you can see the film gives out a real colourful coppers & metallic colours as well as blues/purples, this is the great thing about the material. While this is setting for 24 hours, I get to work with making the wooden base.

Step 3: Base Making

The wood varies from oak, ash, birch, rose, walnut, basically any thing I can get my hands on, from local saw mills, suppliers and wood merchants. Up cycled wood comes into my projects a lot as I like to use wood which people don’t require any more from tables, chairs, doors any thing really. I also find wood in forests.

You have to make sure the wood is air-dried for at least a good 18months other wise the wood splits.

I then cut this to size on my a table saw. I then clamp 5 sides together and leave to set for 24 hours. When set, I then sand this down with 3 different grits to get a clean finish, leaving the wood smooth and soft.

I then stain the wood in the rich dark chocolate colour to match the wooden templates.

Next stage is wiring up the lamps. I use a vintage spiral cord and only use LED bulbs for my lamp.

Step 4: Back to Lampshade Making

Now the acrylic film is set, I use my craft knife to cut out shapes with in the template. This takes time as I have to be vary careful to not cut where is not need as this will show through when light is projecting. Cutting the shapes out lets the natural light beam through.

I then copper foil each template and the solder each template individually around both side with soldering iron. I found this to be the best way in constructing the lamp.

Step 5: Assembling the Lamp

To assemble my lamp:

This part is tricky, as I need two pairs of hands to do this so I ask fellow artists and my family to help me with this part. It’s very fiddly and getting the angles correct is challenging but well worth the finished out come. I do the soldering while I have an extra pair of hands to hold the templates to gather so I can pin them together with the solder. When the structure is complete, I then can go round the whole lamp and tidy up and fill all the gaps in with solder to make it neat and tidy with clean edges

The lamp sits at a height of 37cm and width 23 x 23 cm

I hope you have enjoyed my processes. If you have questions, then do ask.

courtesy: Amberlightsuk

DIY Miniature Fairy Garden Terrarium – Enchanted Mushroom Lights

Hi, in this tutorial I made a fairy garden terrarium with mushroom lights and a fairy mushroom house. I used some extruded polystyrene (xps styrofoam), battery operated led lights, transparent sanitary silicone sealant, tin foil, copper wire, hot glue, a little bit of polymer clay, moss and acrylic paint. I also used a glass cake cover. Step 1: Preparing the Board I first cut the styrofoam board to fit the glass cake cover. I adjusted the corners with a cutter, then I painted it black. Step 2: Adding the Lights

 

I then glued the lights to some pieces of copper wire. I made the wires in different lengths and also left more wire on the upper side (that will be helpful when making the mushroom caps). I glued the copper wires to the foam board with hot glue. I added some volume to the board using tin foil and hot glue.

Step 3: Making the Mushrooms

I mixed some red acrylic paint with silicone and made a paste. I applied the paste on the wires and leveled it using soap and water. For making the mushroom caps I used the silicone paste and wrapping foil. I applied some paste on the plastic foil and covered it. Then I started shaping it into a mushroom cap. For making the round shapes I used the cones inside of an eggs carton. I also covered the tinfoil base using the same silicone paste in black. Using some tin foil I made a cone and covered it with polymer clay. I sculpted a little house, baked it and painted it with acrylic paint.

Step 4: Moss and Details

I placed the moss over the board, carefully mixing the patches and used toothpicks to fix it in place. I also made some cute white dots on the house using white silicone.

I love the result!