How To Dye Clothes With A Shibori Technique

You’ll need:

  • an indigo dye kit
  • natural fiber clothing or fabric
  • 2 5 gallon buckets
  • rubber gloves
  • small wood squares
  • rubber bands
  • twine
  • a PVC pipe
  • a long wooden stick
  • a drop cloth
  • rubber gloves

When choosing fabric or clothing, it’s important that made of natural fibers. Cotton, wool, silk or linen work best. I also like to pre-wash my fabric before dyeing. Here I’m using rectangular dinner napkins but obviously, any shape or article of clothing will do! Here are just a few basic binding techniques to try:

Itajime shibori is known as the shape-resist technique. To start, fold the fabric like an accordion.

Fold it again in the other direction – again, like an accordion. Place it between two pieces of wood, or any flat shaped object, and bind it together with string or rubber bands. The shapes and rubber bands will prevent the dye from penetrating the fabric they cover. The larger the shape and the more rubber bands you use, the more white you will see. The smaller the shape and fewer rubber bands you use, the more indigo you will see. Arashi is the Japanese term for “storm” and it’s also known as the pole-wrapping technique. It starts by wrapping fabric around a plastic PVC pipe at a diagonal. Once the fabric is wrapped, tie a piece of twine into a double knot at the base of the pipe. Wrap the twine around the fabric. After 6-7 wraps around the pipe, scrunch the fabric down. Give the twine a strong tug to tighten. Tightening before scrunching will make it more difficult to control and move the fabric.

Continue wrapping, scrunching and tightening until all the fabric is compacted. Tie a knot above the fabric. The pattern will be on a diagonal with thin lines of white, where the twine is binding the fabric. Kumo shibori is known as the pleat and bind technique. It involves binding the fabric in very close sections, which results in several spider like designs. This is just one of many ways to experiment with this technique. Start by folding the fabric into an accordion. Pinch and bind into equal sections. Do the same with the opposite side, in staggered sections. Continue binding with rubber bands, working your way towards the center. Keep binding until you can’t go any further. Add additional rubber bands to make the fabric into a tight bundle. Be resourceful when binding – use clamps, paper clips, binder clips, odd shaped wooden pieces, canning jar lids, etc. There is no right or wrong way to shibori! To set up the indigo dye vat, follow the accompanying dye kit instructions. For this particular kit, start by filling a 5 gallon bucket with 4 gallons of warm water. Pour the indigo dye powder into the bucket and stir in a circular motion. Then pour in the soda ash and reduction agent. Stir again in a circular motion and then in reverse. It is important not to oxidize the dye bath so keeping it covered and stirring it gently is recommended. Once the dyed is well mixed, cover for at least an hour. When you check on the dye, you’ll notice a foamy oil-slick looking top layer and a neon yellow-greenish colored liquid below. This is when you know the dye is ready. Rinse the fabric in another bucket of clean water. Squeeze out all the water before submerging it into the indigo dye bath. Gently manipulate and massage the dye into the fabric. Again, try not to agitate the dye by working gently under the surface of the dye. After about 5 minutes, take the fabric out of the dye. It will have a green hue but after several minutes, as it is exposed to oxygen, it will turn dark blue. Carefully peek inside one of your pieces and you’ll see the areas in which the dye wasn’t able to penetrate. Lookin’ good! After all the pieces have been dyed and allowed to oxidize, go ahead and repeat the dying process. The more it goes into the dye bath, the darker the indigo hue the fabric will be. And remember, the fabric will always look darker when wet and will fade a bit when washed for the first time. After dyeing, allow the pieces to dry and set. I like to leave them overnight before unwrapping the pieces. Put on a fresh pair of gloves, grab a pair of scissors and keep that bucket of clean water nearby. Give the bound pieces a good rinse in water and then carefully snip away the rubber bands and twine. First up is the shape resist technique. See how the fabric is gridded with striped lines from the rubber bands? My wooden squares weren’t able to exclude the dye completely and I love it! That is the beauty of shibori – there are no mistakes. Now for the pleated and bound resist technique . . .
And the pole tying technique . . . I used binder clips here to bind a square accordion fold. Here, I simply knotted all four corners of the fabric individually. And then there is the good ol’ binding method we all did in grade school. Once all the pieces have been unwrapped, wash them in the washing machine with cold water without detergent. Line dry, or dry on the lowest heat setting in a dryer, and iron to set the color.

The dye vat should allow you to dye at least 5 pounds of fabric. If you keep it covered after each use, it should last up to 5 days. Have fun!
 (images by HonestlyWTF)

How to make floating cup with quilling technique

Floating cup Quilling technique 1

Today, we are creating plenty bowl. I’m sure you’re familiar with this popular man-made souvenir that is also called “floating cup.” Do it from a variety of materials, remain unchanged only the cup and saucer. As for us, we will focus on paper decorations – flowers and butterflies in quilling techniques. How to make a cup of blooming abundance with their hands

Materials and tools:

– Cup and saucer;
– Rigid wire or unnecessary spoon (fork);
– Thick green paper;
– Paper quilling;
– Quilling tool;
– A pair of scissors;
– PVA glue;
– Melt.

First of all prepare for the cup and saucer, will wash them thoroughly and dry.

Take a rigid wire (I – double copper). Instead of the wire can take unnecessary plug (quite tough, not of aluminum).

Bend the wire, giving it’s a form of:

A Dense green paper well crumples, and then smoothes – it’ll drape the wire. Wire wrapping paper. We attach basis for quilling composition suitable form.

One end of the blank is glued to the saucer via Melt. Give the glue to harden properly. The second end of the wire into the workpiece is pasted plates. Beautifully draping paper. Making flowers dandelions. Take a strip of yellow paper, with a broad end and a narrow one from another. Cut her “grass.” And, since the narrow end, to roll the strip to curl. Unveiling the bud and get a dandelion. From rolls of dark green color and the elements of the “drop” blue crocus buds do. Glue the flowers to the heart of our abundance bowl, prepare the composition. In a cup of “planting” butterfly quilling technique, made in an appropriate color scheme (as do those of butterflies, you can remember It would be possible to completely close the green background with flowers, but I felt that a part still to be seen.You can also use other colors to create quilling abundance bowl –  help you with this. Do not limit your imagination and you will succeed!

How to make earrings in the technique ganutell

EARRINGS IN THE TECHNIQUE GANUTELL 1

These are bright, summer earrings, you can easily make your own hands, literally “out of nothing”. They look just super 🙂 For a fun-filled sunny mood – the most it!

Would you like to become an owner of a pair of these – then this is for you MK:
Here are the tools and materials that we need to work.

This is primarily, of course, the wire – it will be the foundation for our future earrings, also need regular needle, line, thread (preferably colored), any wire cutters (suitable even a manicure, if you still do not have a whole collection of tools) and the egg-box of Kinder surprise

Threaded needle into the egg, fasten And proceed to the winding wire needle in a spiral. egg stop working in this business

when the spiral is ready, remove it with a little stretching of spokes and – as a spring-loaded

Then the ends of the wire can bite, they no longer need us

Now get put on a spring-loaded on a piece of a wire – it is necessary to give the earrings a particular shape, such as a circle or droplets

When a form is defined – anchoring the ends of the cutting wire just slightly rewinding them together

Now you can start the creative part – winding start thread earrings – each LAGs – one turn of the spiral wire

You can wrap in different directions … And different colors that’s such a beauty, we will end up – literally 5-10 minutes of work 🙂Then they can continue to further decorate – with beads, sequins, feathers, and of course, in the end, do not forget to attach to seventy earrings. All our work of art is ready! It can start to wear 🙂

How to create earrings in filigree technique

Create earrings in filigree technique 1

I am personally very inspired by her work, sometimes I dare to repeat her motives, but of course up to its level I still have to grow.

Today will tell and show you how to make my jewelry.

Create ornaments from polymer clay filigree technique or, in other words, the application requires: accuracy, patience, sense of color and skill.

To create a view of earrings we need:

  • metal base for earrings – 2 pcs;
    * shvenzy – 2 pcs (I immediately took the assembled version of Basic);
    * Bake polymer clay Fimo (in my opinion, it is best here). For the base colors that ar needed: blue with sparkles (I took Fimo Effect № 302), white and olive. For flowers chosen by mixing the following colors: rich pink, pink lighter, brownish-gold, cool green, dark red, light beige to yellowish. In the photo colors will be clearer.
    * needle;
    * stationery knife;
    *  solid smooth surface to work with clay (eg, tile);
    and, of course, our pens 🙂
    * Prerequisites: the purity of the hands and the work surface.

Let’s get started. Mixed colors for the base of the blue and white clay, roughly in proportions as in the photo.

After adding olive green clay. Adding it so much that in the end turned out here that color as celadon. Take the metal framework for earrings and get the ball. Now we need to share our ball exactly in half. To do this, we perform with a scoop of the following manipulations: The resulting halves of the roll into two balls.

Now we use our fingers and palm as much as possible. Take one ball is rolled it between his palms up

domestic fundamentals size and attached to it. So with the second ball.

Take the base with clay, the clay is pressed down the middle of the palm (where there is a small depression) and was equal to our clay finger on the edges of the frame (if necessary, crushing and rubbing a finger).It is important to make sure that the clay is even across the surface of the setting.
It is important to make sure that the clay is even across the surface of the setting.

We perform all also from the second base.

At a forum on needlework, I read that some people think that is the flat and smooth surface of the clay is obtained only by pre-baking or sanding. In my experience, if you do the things as mentioned above, the pre-baking or sanding is required. Of course, the presence of the setting of the base simplifies the smoothing process.

So we’ve got here are the “canvas” for creativity.

I have prepared in advance such sausages we need colors. Take the needle green, in an amount such that it was possible to roll a thin sausage for the longest branches of our “flowers of the tree.” Carefully take the sausage with a needle and using it and are putting our finger on the base of the twig. Use your fingernail to gently press down sausage along its entire length. In this way, we lay out all the “tree”, looking at the photos.

Repeat the process with the second substrate.

As a result, you should get something like this.

Flowers I put upwards. Bottom increasingly large flowers are placed on top – small. The first flower is red. Take the needle red clay. A small piece of clay slips into the palm of your finger. It is important that the clay was not homogeneous and crumbled! It should look like this. Take the needle and gently put on top of a “tree”, drawing from the middle to the end of the petals groove, thus pinning it to the base. Further, as we put each petal circle. At the end of the flower gently press down with your finger. We continue to put the flowers from the bottom up. Lower pink flowers we put a dark tint, top pink flower – light. Serdtsevinki flowers do with a small ball of clay and press down gently with your fingernail. All the flowers in place. The painting looks unfinished. Apply extra petals tinged color light corresponding to each. Prior to the full completion of the picture we put the leaves where they are appropriate, and we put the finishing touches in the form of small dots. The picture is ready! We perform just as well and the second earring.

Differences in earrings will always be because we are not robots 🙂 But they look harmonious.

There has come step baking clay. We put earrings on a glass surface (or foil) and place in the oven, preheated to 110 degrees for 15 minutes. It is important to set a timer or put the alarm clock.

Take out of the oven earrings and give them cool completely. You can put them in cold water for rapid cooling.

Now separate the frozen clay on a metal surface. Sometimes it moves, sometimes to hook your fingernail or a needle, main is done carefully and in an inconspicuous place (eg at the bottom of earrings).

Glue clay to a metal substrate using superglue or gel-adhesive polymer clay. It is important to apply the adhesive in a moderate quantity, so that when you press the glue leaked out.

After applying the adhesive on the metal base are putting on top of the clay and pressed gently with your finger. Give time to grab – for about three minutes. It is important to make the clay just right, as the reaction proceeds rapidly.

And earrings are ready!

Hopefully, the lesson was useful to you 🙂

Thank you for attention!

Best regards

How to make Daffodils from quilling technique

Daffodils from quilling technique 1

Daffodils from quilling technique

 I present to you a craft on production of panels and postcards “Daffodils” in the technique of quilling (+ modular origami) using flow charts.

Materials: colored paper, colored cardboard, paper quilling, ruler stencil, toothpick, tweezers, PVA glue, glue “Moment”, a pair of scissors, a ruler, compasses, scissors curly, curly punch. Step by step description of the work:
1. Production of cards.
The basic element of our cards is narcissus flower in quilling techniques. For the manufacture of parts of the flower use technology card number 1 . 1. From ready-made strips of paper quilling, with a toothpick, twist tight roll.
2. Tight roll ready.
3. Dissolve roll on special stencil to the desired size.
4. Edge glue adhesive.
5. Make free rolls.
6. Surrendering free rolls on both sides, forming the shape of a sheet.
7. To produce the right amount of small leaves. Make midway flower on the routing number 2 . 1. Folded paper in two horizontal layers 1 cm cut.
2. Cut into small noodles free edges.
3. Using a toothpick twist roll with fringe, occasionally with white glue for bonding strength.
4. Fold the edges. Seredinka flower is ready! details ready. We will need 6-9 petals white middle, 1, 3 large green leaf. Glue the parts together to form the flower and leaf. By routing number 3 to make a flower bud. 1. From ready-made strips of paper quilling with a toothpick, twist tight roll.
2. Tight roll ready.
3. Gently squeeze the roll center – turned sepals.
4. Fill with white glue for strength.
5. Insert the roll sheet. Dry.
6. Craft Bud 2. Stick the stems. Elements flower ready. Basis. To obtain a basis to make a square shaped .
Draw a square with sides of 14.5 cm.
Carry out diagonally.
From the center of the intersection of the diagonals draw a circle with a radius of 5 cm. Cut the square and the inner circle curly scissors.
Angles issue figured punch. Details cards ready. 3. Assembly. On the basis of bright stick shaped square. Glue the flower and leaf glue “Moment”. Glue the flower buds. Card is ready! Well, stylish !!! 2. Panel “Daffodils”.
To produce panels on the routing number 1 to make 18 pieces of leaves in white, on the routing number to make 2 3 midway.
For manufacturing we use the leaves of the technological card number 4 1. combs secure with PVA glue the first round of paper quilling.
2-3. Make the length of the necessary number of turns, each time increasing the distance of 3-4 teeth.
4.Zakonchit sheet, glue the edge of the paper.
5. Remove the sheet from the combs.
6. Gives the sheet the desired shape. To produce a sufficient amount. Details panels ready. Glue panels on the bright parts based with glue “Moment”. For the manufacture of frames required triangular modules in the origami technique.
Produce triangular modules routing number 5 . 1. Fold the rectangle exactly horizontal.
2. Fold the rectangle to define the vertical center line to deploy.
3. Bend the upper edges to the center line.
4. Turn over.
5. Fold the lower classes up the drawing.
6. Curl on drawing.
7. Fold the lower classes.
8. Fold the corners of the folds, bend the lower classes.
9. Bend the triangle vertically.
10. Triangle module is ready! To make the frame modules red, yellow and orange in a sufficient amount. Assemble the modules by inserting into each other, rounding, alternating colors. Assemble the frame, glued on panels. Done !!! “Daffodils” in the interior.

How to make beautiful bags of denim in the technique of “chenille”

bags of denim in the technique of  chenille  1

you need : a few pieces of fabric (layers must be done at least three), thread, sewing machine, scissors.
Very nice, this technique looks at the type of flannel fabrics, crepe and jeans. I decided to try on the denim fabric and chiffon.
Now the work of: Jeans, to steam. Fold the fabric layers on top of each other like this:

As you can see, I have set the lower and upper layer of denim cloth in the middle of the three layers of chiffon.
Tip: In the middle is better to put BRIGHT fabric, it looks spectacular in sections.
Mark the direction of future chalk seams (45 degrees to the share)

Stitch recommend this technique placed at a distance of 1.3-1.5 cm from each other. Scribbling should be alternately changing the direction of the lines. That’s what I did: dos trach Vala until the end of the lines and the fabric turned 180 degrees and paves the following line.
That’s how it happened:

Carefully cut the tissue between the lines, not only touching the bottom layer, and a stiff brush to spend some time across sections, “shaggy” so fabric. Still recommend a fabric scroll in the washing machine.
It turns out like this:

Next you need to make a future handbag on the side seams. It turns out like this:

You need to add a small piece of denim at the top of the bag, as usual width of jeans is not enough to make a deep enough bag:

The seam needs to insert the handle of the bag. Handles are made of two strips of denim as follows:

And so they should turn out and defer the finishing line:

Paste in suture they should be as follows:

Here they are in the finished form.

Paving the finishing line on the insert, you need to handle and topstitch along the top edge:

To make the bag volume should be scribbling corners perpendicular to the side seams. Cut them off is not necessary – it will create stiffness on the bottom of that bag is important.

Here is a view of the front side:

Lining for bags can be made from purchased fabric, and can adapt in order to save this old t-shirt: cheap and nice to the touch. Cut off as follows:

Perelitsovyvat and bottom:

Sewn seam connection to liner insertion and bags.

I even have a T-shirt label preserved, it came as a brand name. I do not rip out began because, the most liked.
Now you need to decorate the bag. In the old jeans pockets on the embroidery, it was wonderful, so I decided to use it. Suppose further that will please the eye:

Just cut it with scissors around and sewed by hand needle with gold thread. It was possible to topstitch seam “Zigzag”:

When the work was at this point, I suddenly thought that it was necessary to make a bag for convenience, inner pocket … oh, I forgot!
But the output was found by itself. Cut a second pocket of jeans. Cut, not particularly bothered, just around, leaving a couple of centimeters at the top:

And so he sewed to the lining of the already finished, only the upper edge. The result was I “into fly-away” internal pocket:

Sew the roses by hand and added a little black with silver thread guipure. That’s what I got handbag.