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How to Sew Two-layer Latin Dance Skirt

This is a simple skirt, which can be made with low to intermediate sewing skills. Total costs: about 15 euros.

I apologize in advance for the poor quality of most of my pictures. My camera had a lot of difficulty with photographing black fabric.

Step 1: The Pattern

Of course, first, you need to make your pattern. Thankfully, this is super easy. You can use the figure as a guide. So here’s how to make the pattern.

First, you need the hip measurement of the person you’re making the skirt for. My friend is very small and has a hip measurement of 84 cm. Since the skirt is made of lycra which is very stretchy, the actual skirt needs to be smaller. I estimated that a skirt circumference of 70 cm would be OK. I will call this 70 cm the hip measurement from now on. You also need to decide on a total length. Following the example of the skirt in my photo, I chose a total length of about 40 cm. Note that this pattern does not include seam allowances.

The skirt consists of two parts. Two trapezoids at the top, which I will call the base, and a wide, hanging part, which is made from four circles, which I will call the frill.

The base consists of two trapezoids, where the back part has a bit of extra fabric at the bottom. This is in place to make sure that the bum of the dancer stays hidden while dancing. The top width of the pieces is hip/2 ( =35 cm), and the height is the total length/2 ( =20 cm). The extra length is about 5 cm, depending on the bum of the wearer. The bottom of the trapezoids is a bit (about 3 cm for each panel) wider than the top edge. This will stop the skirt from riding up.

The frill is made out of four circles, with a circle cut out of the center, as shown in the figure. The black circles need to be a bit smaller than the blue ones, but they must have the same inner radius since the inner edge will connect to the base. The inner circumference of each circle (c0) must be 1/2 of the hip measurement. This means that the inner radius (r0) must be r0 = c0/(4π) = c0/12.6. So for me, r0 = 5.6 cm. The radius of the blue fabric needs to be 20 cm longer, so r2 = 25.6 cm. The black fabric must be 3 cm shorter, so r1 = 22.6 cm.

Step 2: The Fabric

It is easiest to draw a rough sketch to get an idea of how much fabric you will need. Key point: do not confuse radii and diameters! If you make a skirt with the same sizes as me, then you should have plenty if you get 60 cm of blue (at 140 cm Wide) and 1 m of black. I got 1 m of both.

I got a light quality lycra. Try to get the blackest black you can, and a color that really pops for the lower layer. Bright green, red, or even a glittering fabric would be really cool. It’s an accent, make it stand out!

There is a lot of lycra available online, but in the end, I got it at my local fabric market. I prefer to see and feel my fabric, so there are no surprises in the thickness, color, and quality.

Step 3: Drawing

You will need a piece of dressmaker’s chalk, a cup of water, and a lot of pins and patience. Lycra is slippery, which makes is tricky to work with. If you dip the edge of the chalk in water before drawing a line, it will release a lot more chalk, making the drawing easier.

My lycra is reasonably thin because I wanted the frill to be light. Due to this, I decided to make my base out of two layers. So draw both pieces of the base twice, or once on folded fabric. If you work on folded fabric, you need to pin the two layers together, as shown in the picture.

You will also need two circles of each color, with the right radio (black smaller than blue). I did this by drawing a dot at the place where I wanted my circle, and moving my tape-measure around that dot to draw a circle, as shown in the figure. Also, draw the inner circle with radius r0.

Cut all the pieces (2x front panel, 2x back panel, 2 black circles, and 2 blue circles). Leave a 1 cm seam allowance around the base. Do not leave seam allowance around the inner edge of the circles, or the circumference will be too small. Instead, leave a small allowance around the outer edge. Lycra will not fray, so you will not need to hem the outer edge frill. Cut a straight line from the outer edge of the circles to the center. The figure shows the pieces you now have.

Step 4: Making the Base and the Frill

Sew the front pieces of the base to the back pieces, good sides together. I used an overlock machine with the most stretchy stitch. If you are using a regular sewing machine, make sure you are using a stretch needle and a stretch stitch. Sew the pieces together.

Now turn one of the two bases right side out, and put it inside the other one, so all the good sides are touching. Sew around the top edge to close it off, and turn the good sides outward. Now only the lowest edge of the base is bare, and the edges of the top and sides are neatly tucked away.

For the frill: Put the good sides of both colors together and sew the cut edge as shown. Lay them on top of each other, with both bad sides facing down (good side to bad side). Pin them securely together.

Step 5: Putting It Together

Now comes a lot of pinning. Fold the two layers of the base inward, and lay the top edge (or inner edge) between them, as shown in the closeup. Do not be stingy with pins, this will help a lot. With rough stitches, hand bastes it all together. Like I said, lycra is slippery, and this is a place where the stability of the basting will be a big help.

Using a regular sewing machine and a stretchy stitch, sew they base and the grill together.

And that’s it! You’re done. You made yourself a beautiful skirt.

Step 6: Look at Her Shine!

I’m happy with the result, and my friend is even happier. She’s a wonderful dancer, and the skirt enhances it. Her dancing partner modeled an accent for his own outfit from the scrap of blue that was left over.

Thanks!

courtesy: Frivolica

 
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Different Types of Neck Patterns to Try in your Kurtis

Kurtis has become a very integral outfit it Indian fashion industry. From parties to casual wear for your work every day, Kurtis has become a big fashion statement. Kurtis have become handy.

There are various neckline designs in the Kurtis that give you a look ranging from ravishing to a perfect traditional blend. Let us have a look at what necklines you must find and go for at various occasions.

Hope you like these Stylish Kurtis Neck Patterns.

We would love to hear your thoughts in the comment section below. And be sure to like us Facebook for more ideas!

Thank you for visiting our website. Keep Creating with Art & Craft!

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How to sew case for the headphone and different things

cover manufacturer for headphones will not require you a lot.
Time and skills, and make it can be made of fabric remnants, surely you have different scraps, which can be put to use. And our detailed master class will help you with this.
This cover can also be used for storage of flash player or a miniature, here it is already possible to show your imagination. Cheholchik can be used as a pendant, it was convenient to use it, and he was always there.
Let’s get started …

Required Material:

lightning;
main fabric;
Lining cloth;
Nonwoven for sealing or batting;
pattern, scissors, thread and a good mood.

From the base fabric (in this case, and colored dots) cut parts 1 – piece 1, 2 – 2 pcs., 3 -. 1 pc. (Pictured Circuits numbered).
Lining (in our case striped) and nonwoven 1 -1 units 2 – 2 pieces.
Swing 1 about 9-11 cm 3 -. 4-5 cm Details are given with allowances. The size of parts may be changed depending on the purpose for which will be hereinafter used.

As a result, we have obtained a number of parts:

Sleek interlining to the three parts of the base fabric:

Take a semicircle lining fabric face up and put on his zipper, so that the upper edge coincided:

Set top semicircle of the base fabric (also raze edges)

Now the “structure” should flash, departing from lightning about 5 mm (for convenience staple items or stoned)

So we turned one-half of the top of the cover. Similar actions are performed in the second half. Here’s what you should have:
The right side of the box:

Wrong side of the box:

Take preform face up and sew the two sides of the zipper, departing from it 2-3mm. Unzip to the middle and hand stitched back and forth for fixing:

We make a loop at the edge of the lightning. Take part 3, fold the edges to the center and then in half:

Sew part of the long edge on both sides, stepping back 2-3mm.
Next, bend your future loop in half and sew to the place where previously secured the zipper:

Take parts cut for the back side (of the base fabric (dots) and the lining (striped)). Circle, a cut out of the fabric put face down on top of the face we put a circle of lining fabric:

Now all this will place on the front part of the cover (lightning necessarily rastegnut until mid) and stitch around the circle, stepping back 5 mm from the edge:

Carefully cut off the tails of unnecessary padlock and trim allowance circle (leaving about 2-3 mm)

It turns out, stitch along the edge of a round cover, retreating 4-5 mm.

To our was always with us, we attach to the eyelet in the ring!

courtesy: livemaster
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How to do hand embroidery mirror work design

Hand embroidery designs are beautiful but laborious to make. They involve complex and intricate styles and designs of embroidery that stand out – especially when you make use of the right fabric as well as thread colours. All these factors are very important in order to determine the elegance and beauty of the completed embroidered work along with its design and pattern.

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How to Make Baby sunhat pattern with ruffles and ties

This free baby sunhat pattern should fit a 6-12 month old; Elise is 10 months old and it’s super cute on her petite-ish noggin. Alternatively, you could easily size this hat up or down on a photocopier. Free tutorial, baby sunhat pattern and step-by-step instructions are all below. Bring on the sunshine!

Required Material:

  • Kathy’s free pattern for a baby sunhat with ruffles and ties (PDF – sized for 6-12 months)
  • 1/2 yard of fabric
  • Rotary fabric cutter, self-healing cutting mat and clear acrylic ruler
  • Good fabric scissors
  • Good iron (like Rowenta) and Ironing board
  • Thread
  • Pins (I prefer glass head pins)
  • Sewing machine

Cut your free baby hat pattern pieces
Print my free baby sunhat pattern. It’s sized for 6-12 months so you can scale it up or down as needed. You can use one fabric print or two.

Cut 4 triangles for outside crown
Cut 4 triangles for inside crown lining
Cut 4 brims (2 top, 2 lining) – cut 2 brims right side up, then flip the pattern so that you’re cutting 2 brims wrong side up
Cut 2 strips 16″ x 1″ for the ties
Cut 2 strips 25″ x 2″ for ruffle

For this tutorial you’re going to sew everything at 3/8″ seams. I usually do 1/2″ seams for my tutorials but wanted them to be a bit smaller for Elise’s baby head.

Create the outside crown and crown lining
Take four of your crown pieces. Line up two pieces, right sides together, and sew along the side. Repeat with the other two pieces.

Press seams open; they will be slightly curved. Pin the two pieces together, right sides together. Sew. You’ll now have one sewn crown piece. Press the seam open. Repeat to make the lining crown.

Create the brim
Grab your four cut pieces for your brim. Now because it’s a bit of an asymmetrical brim, be sure to match pieces together so the brim top will match your brim bottom.

Sew two pieces of the brim together to make the outside brim. Press the seams open. Repeat to create inside lining brim.

Create the ruffle
Sew pieces together on the ends, pressing seams flat. It should look like a large circle. Iron the circle in half, wrong sides together. The right side of the fabric will be on top and bottom now, and there’s now a finished edge and a raw edge. Using a basting stitch, sew two rows of stitching around the raw edge of the circle. I stop at the seams and then start again because I find it’s easier to gather (in the next step). Match the seams of the ruffle to the seams of the brim. Pin. Pull the gathering threads gently to gather the fabric into ruffles. Pull it until it’s the same size as the outside of the brim. Pin the ruffle onto the edge of the brim, raw edges together. Sew the ruffle onto the brim. Place the other brim piece on top of the ruffle piece you just sewed, basically making a ruffle sandwich with the two right sides together. Pin and sew. Turn right side out and iron. Finished brim is 18 inches circumference. Topstitch the brim near the ruffle edge. Sew the brim shut by sewing close to the inside circle edge.

Take out any basting stitches that show (yikes, I had a lot on this one …that’s what I get for sewing fast during naps).

Attach hat crown to the brim
Pin the crown onto the brim, right sides together matching seams. Sew around the crown to attach it to the brim.

On the right side of the hat, iron the seam open so the raw edges are up inside the crown. It’s starting to look like a hat now, yes? Make and attach ties
Fold ties in half and iron. Fold raw edges into that center crease. Iron again. On one end, make a triangle with the ends and fold in. Sew along the open edge of the tie to sew it shut. Repeat for the second tie. Now you’re going to attach the ties to the hat. Find the two sides of the hat. Pin the raw edge of the tie to the raw edge of the crown at the side seams. Sew back and forth a bunch of times so it’s secure. Repeat on the other side. Attach hat lining
Turn lining under 1/2″ along the raw edge and iron. Turn the lining so the wrong side is on the outside. Pin the lining inside the hat, matching seams. Put your pins on the outside of the hat because you’ll be sewing from that side to make sure it looks nice on the outside. And here’s what it looks like inside… Sew it all together, stitching close to the brim, catching the lining underneath as you go. I’m not a huge fan of blind stitching like this but it’s the way I figured out how to do it, so there you go. Suggestions welcome. Tie that hat on and go outside!

Courtesy: Merriment Design

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DIY Vintage Style Cross Stitch Shelf

Here’s how to make this vintage cross stitch shelf! (I know you might not find a shutter like this, but you can use these steps to create something similar with other vintage finds!) I started with this old cane shutter. It was white and kind of chippy, but kind of dingy too. I wanted something a little less “worn” looking. I gave the whole thing a coat of Folk Art® Home Decor Chalk in White Adirondack. It only took one coat, I just wanted to freshen things up. After drying I brushed on the wax and now it has a pretty sheen too. Yay! I couldn’t find brackets in a color I liked so I picked up white glossy metal brackets and painted them with the Folk Art Home Decor Chalk in Summer Porch. It’s the most delicious color of yellow. They got a coat of wax too. I knew that I wanted to use a light floral sheet to cover my top shelf. I cut a length of 8″ wide pine to the same length as my shelf. I covered that in one coat of the White Adirondack as well. I didn’t wax it though, since it was going to be covered with fabric.

Now it was time to start stitching! I have a free cross stitch pattern for you here – you can use it on something similar or even on a regular cross stitch project.

I used two strands of yarn on each stitch, since the cane was so big one strand of yarn didn’t fill the space enough. Cross stitch just as you would on fabric, but try to keep your yarn on the back from showing through the cane.

I stitched a floral pattern in colors similar to the fabric I was using on the top of the shelf.

So fun right?

Onto the top shelf! To cover the shelf I cut a section from one of my favorite vintage sheet patterns. I cut it so that it would overlap on the back and sides just a bit. To cover the shelf, apply a layer of Mod Podge on the top portion of the shelf and lay the fabric in place. Smooth it down so there are no wrinkles.

Repeat for the front edge and bottom of the sheet, once the top is dry. Trim the back edge so that the fabric will overlap on the back side, without wrapping around to the bottom or top. Mod Podge the back edge down as well.

For the sides, I trimmed the fabric so the bottom didn’t cover the whole short side and mod podged it down. Then for the top and sides, I folded them envelope style and wrapped them around to the bottom. I trimmed the fabric so the edge would be covered by the bracket. That way everything looks nice and tidy and you don’t have any raw edges showing.

Once everything was dry it was time for assembly!

I placed the shelf on the shutter and marked the bracket holes with a pencil. For the underside of the shelf, I trimmed off the fabric in a circle around the mark with an Exacto knife and removed the fabric so it wouldn’t get all twisted up with the drill. I screwed the bracket in place and covered the screws with Summer Porch paint to make it all blend together.

I think it is such a fun piece and I’m going to love having it my studio. It’s so bright and colorful!

courtesy: Flamingo Toes
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How to sew a beach bag and sun hat for girls

we all want to update your wardrobe and add to it with bright colors! They are no exception and our little fashionista! I suggest that you make with me the summer set of accessories for girls, which is suitable for walks and for going to the beach.

Required Material:
– Cotton fabric in stripes of many colors (or any bright figure), I had the segment size 50h55 cm;
– white cotton fabric, about 60h150 cm;
– colored trim cotton fabric appliqué;
– thread color patches;
– a strip of calico size 8h60 cm, a cut on the bias,.
– zipper length 45 cm;
– glue spider’s web;
– fleece.

And tools: sewing machine, scissors, rulers, tape measure, pins and needles, a pencil or a marker for the tissue. For manufacturing applications need a paper with Teflon coating. I use a basis of the self-adhesive film, which is the torn and discarded. One of her party who, without marking, smooth and does not stick to her gossamer.

Handbag:
I cut out the following details, adding seam allowances:
1. The upper part – 2 pieces.
2. The lower part – 1 piece.
3. The inner portion (lining) – 1 item.
4. Handles – 2 pieces.
5. One particular size of 5×7 cm, for processing the zipper.
All parts (except №5) to duplicate interlining. So far, we set it aside and leave one detail №1 – on it will do applique.

I drew this picture, which you can either print, increasing to the desired size, or transfer from the screen and attached a sheet. Circuits cut.

1. A multi-colored patch of cloth to do with the adhesive layer. To do this, cut the adhesive cobweb right size, put on a scrap, top closing the basis of “self-adhesive” (Teflon side on cobweb) and ironing a few seconds. We give a little cool and carefully separate the fabric from the paper.
2. Then, the part of the polymer layer, translate circuit parts our application pencil and cut. Note that the details you need to translate the mirror!
3. spread the composition of all the elements in the detail of bags and glue carefully.

Sew each element of the applicator or a zigzag stitch, picking up the thread in the fabric tone.

Details, calling to each other, you need to stick and sew in order, starting with the “bottom”. For example, the first on the palms glued and sewn part of the island, then the trunks and then only twigs.

PARTS bags together, iron out the seams.

Fold in half to get the item right sides, grind and iron out the side seams.

1. We form the bottom of a bag. To this end, the side seam is aligned with the fold of the bag. Lay off from the resulting corner and 4 cm carries a perpendicular line.
2. stitched by the intended line, do not forget about the tie. Cutting off, leaving a seam allowance of 1 cm.
3. turns bedplate 8 cm wide.

Further, on the upper edge of the bag, at a distance of 2 cm from the side seams put check marks.

1. On the front side of the zipper by placing it face down, starting from the reference mark.
2. On the other hand, turn down the zipper, without reaching the reference mark, as in the photo.

1. Sew on the zipper.
2. Similarly, we make the interior of the bag: take part №3, sew the side seams and process corners, forming a bedplate. We put ready “lining” within the base, aligning the side seams.

Connecting parts of the upper edge, along with the seam lightning, leaving no gap wired about 12-15 cm for a reversing.

Everted bag through the opening.

1. reduce an into the “lining” top of the bag.
2. Leading the finishing line of the upper edge of the bag while sewing up the hole for version.

Process the end of lightning.
1. Details of the size 5×7 cm folded in half right sides and iron out sew seam.
2. We put the item on the zipper so that the seam turned to its lower side.
3. stitched by lightning and cut off the excess.
4. turn away detail on the front side.
5. Refill the open cut inside and sutured or blind stitches by hand or machine stitching.

1. Treat the handle of the bag. Details are folded along the front side, grind, and iron out the seams.
2. Screw and handle. Open sections at the ends refueled inside and ironed.

Mark location handles: this bag from the center to both sides defer to 7 cm and 3 cm down from lightning.

We sew the handle to the bag, making the tie in the form of rectangles.

We admire the result.

Print out the pattern by writing the image border in A4 sheet. Fine dotted pattern to finish without  Panama.

I cut out the details, adding seam allowances and transfer the reference marks.
Bedplate – 2 pieces.
Crown – 2 pieces of folded.
Visor – 2 pieces of folded, one piece duplicate interlining.
Additionally cut out of striped fabric 2 details size 8h15 cm size strip and 6h70 cm ruffles on the visor.

1. Details visor folded right sides, overstitch, cut close to the seam allowance duplicated parts to make incisions on rounded.
2. Unscrew and to iron visor.

One section of the strips are treated with “Moscow” seam:
Step 1. bend on the wrong side of 0.3-0.5 cm and lay a line close to the edge, cut off the seam allowance close to the line.
Step 2. bent a second time and the second lay-in stitch seam weld or 0.1 cm from it.

We prick on the visor strip, forming a counter-folds and keeping symmetry.

Tack and frill to the visor cut off its excess allowance.

1. Details of the crown folded in half, grind down the back seams.
2. iron out allowances, parts into each other, right sides, aligning seams.

1. 2. Items for folded along the front side, grind, carve corners gut-wrenching. If desired, you can make a long and then tie their bow.
3. We embed between parts of the crown, departing from the lower allowance of 0.5 cm

Tack and grind the cut on the crown, making notches on the stock.

Gut-wrenching the crown, allowance.

Double bottoms detail in the crown ring, combining the check marks. Stitch and allowance.

Gut-wrenching on the front side, allowance, guiding him to the crown.

visor ready to slice the crown, combining the control points.

To prepare a strip of the thin calico size of about 8h60 cm, a cut on the bias. Fold along ironed.

prick or shear from the visor, and allowance.

Turn down, and cut off the excess ends, leaving 1.5-2 cm.
1. Fold the ends inside.
2. is folded to the part of the crown or is pinned

Paving the line of Tuglie, securing at the same time part.

Paving the line around the perimeter of the visor and the cutout, clipping the ends.

We are tying ribbons and admire the result!

thank you!
courtesy: livemaster