Wonderful DIY Pretty Hand bag from Stitch on Plastic Canvas:
Wonderful DIY Pretty Hand bag from Stitch on Plastic Canvas:
If you love roses handmade, in this activity we will offer how to make it a wonderful roses using things that are available daily and are the plastic bag and various colors and is very easy and simple way
Cut into pieces cut as follows Packaging in the circular start racing wire Giving those coated wire forms and a variety of well-connected strings at the bottom. Continue to prepare all kinds of formats
The waterfall braid gets its ornate look by releasing sections of hair as well as picking up new ones along its path.
This technique isn’t particularly hard, but it can be arm-tiring and takes a bit of practice to get an even-looking result. Keep at it!
As you grew accustomed to doing in the first few lessons, part your hair in the middle and grab a small section at the front (on the left or the right), and sweep it back.
Divide into three sections and create a few stitches of a standard crossing-over braid.
The next time it’s the lower strand’s turn to cross, set it aside instead by sweeping it forward. You can use a clip or your mouth to hold it.
Next pick up a small section of hair from right behind the set-aside section.
Carefully separate and smooth your new section from the rest of your hair, then cross it over the center section of your braid– this new piece acts in place of the liberated section.
Cross over the part-side section like in a standard braid, then sweep and secure the lower section forward and away, like in the previous step.
Again pick up a new small section of hair from right behind where the now-free section, and use it to cross over the braid.
Repeat this step to make as many waterfall stitches as you like!
This technique can be extended to wrap around your whole head, but for this style, stop adding new sections when you get to the crown area (or when you stop being able to see what you’re doing clearly with one mirror).
Now you can let go of the sections you were holding with your mouth or clip (any earlier and they would have been in your way). Use a standard crossing-over braid to finish up this side, and secure the tail with a small elastic.
Repeat to make a matching braid on the other side of your head. Start braiding a small section, then each time it’s the lower section’s turn, sweep it forward and out of the way, then grab a small section of hair from right behind it to use instead.
Try to match the angle and stitch size to the first braid. Did you notice this technique to be easier on one side than another?
Tie the two braids together with a small elastic at the back of your head (don’t catch any free hairs from the rest of your head), adjust for symmetry, and optionally remove the braids’ individual elastics.
Smooth and style the rest of your hair (with a styling product if desired, such as a bit of hairspray, hair paste, or conditioning oil).
Now it’s your turn!
Hope you like this waterfall braid tutorial.
We would love to hear your thoughts in the comment section below. And be sure to like us Facebook for more ideas!
Thank you for visiting our website. Keep Creating with Art & Craft!
This tutorial shows how to make step by step cardboard corner shelf / rack / Organizer.
Cut an right angled isosceles triangle of cardboard of sides 13 inch and hypotenuse 18 inch (take 9 such triangles) Now, cut 18 stripe of cardboard of size (13 inch * 2 inch) Next,cut 9 stripe of cardboard of size (19 inch * 2 inch ) Now, take 3 triangles and glue them one over other to make one tough triangle. Take two pieces of cord of lenght 5 feet and put one end of both the cord in the center holes (hole at the right angled corner) of the 3 trays and the other ends in the other 2 sides hole of the trays
Explained how to make silk thread bangle using ribbon and beads. Required Material:
Beads Trim ribbon like this and glue it.
Let it dry.
Here is the finished bangle.
New Kurta Neck Design | One Side Patterns and Button
This is a simple skirt, which can be made with low to intermediate sewing skills. Total costs: about 15 euros.
I apologize in advance for the poor quality of most of my pictures. My camera had a lot of difficulty with photographing black fabric.
Of course, first, you need to make your pattern. Thankfully, this is super easy. You can use the figure as a guide. So here’s how to make the pattern.
First, you need the hip measurement of the person you’re making the skirt for. My friend is very small and has a hip measurement of 84 cm. Since the skirt is made of lycra which is very stretchy, the actual skirt needs to be smaller. I estimated that a skirt circumference of 70 cm would be OK. I will call this 70 cm the hip measurement from now on. You also need to decide on a total length. Following the example of the skirt in my photo, I chose a total length of about 40 cm. Note that this pattern does not include seam allowances.
The skirt consists of two parts. Two trapezoids at the top, which I will call the base, and a wide, hanging part, which is made from four circles, which I will call the frill.
The base consists of two trapezoids, where the back part has a bit of extra fabric at the bottom. This is in place to make sure that the bum of the dancer stays hidden while dancing. The top width of the pieces is hip/2 ( =35 cm), and the height is the total length/2 ( =20 cm). The extra length is about 5 cm, depending on the bum of the wearer. The bottom of the trapezoids is a bit (about 3 cm for each panel) wider than the top edge. This will stop the skirt from riding up.
The frill is made out of four circles, with a circle cut out of the center, as shown in the figure. The black circles need to be a bit smaller than the blue ones, but they must have the same inner radius since the inner edge will connect to the base. The inner circumference of each circle (c0) must be 1/2 of the hip measurement. This means that the inner radius (r0) must be r0 = c0/(4π) = c0/12.6. So for me, r0 = 5.6 cm. The radius of the blue fabric needs to be 20 cm longer, so r2 = 25.6 cm. The black fabric must be 3 cm shorter, so r1 = 22.6 cm.
It is easiest to draw a rough sketch to get an idea of how much fabric you will need. Key point: do not confuse radii and diameters! If you make a skirt with the same sizes as me, then you should have plenty if you get 60 cm of blue (at 140 cm Wide) and 1 m of black. I got 1 m of both.
I got a light quality lycra. Try to get the blackest black you can, and a color that really pops for the lower layer. Bright green, red, or even a glittering fabric would be really cool. It’s an accent, make it stand out!
There is a lot of lycra available online, but in the end, I got it at my local fabric market. I prefer to see and feel my fabric, so there are no surprises in the thickness, color, and quality.
You will need a piece of dressmaker’s chalk, a cup of water, and a lot of pins and patience. Lycra is slippery, which makes is tricky to work with. If you dip the edge of the chalk in water before drawing a line, it will release a lot more chalk, making the drawing easier.
My lycra is reasonably thin because I wanted the frill to be light. Due to this, I decided to make my base out of two layers. So draw both pieces of the base twice, or once on folded fabric. If you work on folded fabric, you need to pin the two layers together, as shown in the picture.
You will also need two circles of each color, with the right radio (black smaller than blue). I did this by drawing a dot at the place where I wanted my circle, and moving my tape-measure around that dot to draw a circle, as shown in the figure. Also, draw the inner circle with radius r0.
Cut all the pieces (2x front panel, 2x back panel, 2 black circles, and 2 blue circles). Leave a 1 cm seam allowance around the base. Do not leave seam allowance around the inner edge of the circles, or the circumference will be too small. Instead, leave a small allowance around the outer edge. Lycra will not fray, so you will not need to hem the outer edge frill. Cut a straight line from the outer edge of the circles to the center. The figure shows the pieces you now have.
Sew the front pieces of the base to the back pieces, good sides together. I used an overlock machine with the most stretchy stitch. If you are using a regular sewing machine, make sure you are using a stretch needle and a stretch stitch. Sew the pieces together.
Now turn one of the two bases right side out, and put it inside the other one, so all the good sides are touching. Sew around the top edge to close it off, and turn the good sides outward. Now only the lowest edge of the base is bare, and the edges of the top and sides are neatly tucked away.
For the frill: Put the good sides of both colors together and sew the cut edge as shown. Lay them on top of each other, with both bad sides facing down (good side to bad side). Pin them securely together.
Now comes a lot of pinning. Fold the two layers of the base inward, and lay the top edge (or inner edge) between them, as shown in the closeup. Do not be stingy with pins, this will help a lot. With rough stitches, hand bastes it all together. Like I said, lycra is slippery, and this is a place where the stability of the basting will be a big help.
Using a regular sewing machine and a stretchy stitch, sew they base and the grill together.
And that’s it! You’re done. You made yourself a beautiful skirt.
I’m happy with the result, and my friend is even happier. She’s a wonderful dancer, and the skirt enhances it. Her dancing partner modeled an accent for his own outfit from the scrap of blue that was left over.
Have you got loads of newspaper lying around? Are you feeling crafty? Well, you have come to the right place.
In this tutorial, I will be telling how you can turn your old newspapers into something good-looking and useful. So follow along.
And that’s it.
Let’s get making.
Start by shredding the newspaper in 1 inch wide strips. You don’t need a lot, these stripes of newspaper will only be used to make the container of our pencil holder, which will not be very thick.
But you can shred a lot because we will be needing them in later steps anyway.
Traditionally the glue used to make paper mache crafts is made by mixing flour and water. and we will be using the same in this project. But you can always use regular glue if you want to.
The glue made out of flour tends to be messy, but it adds to the fun.
To make paper mache glue, take a cup of flour in a mixing bowl and gradually start adding water in it while constantly stirring it. Keep doing it until the mixture turns into a smooth paste. The paste should be neither too runny nor too thick. Click here to watch the video. (Don’t worry, the link will open in new tab.)
TIP 1: Don’t make a lot of paper mache glue at once, because after a day or two, the glue will not be as sticky. So only make as much as you will be able to use in one day.
TIP 2: Use something strong to stir the mixture. I learnt this the hard way, after breaking one spatula.
To make the container, dip the strips of newspaper in the paper mache glue, once the whole strip is covered in the glue, remove the excess and start laying it on a bottle or any other such thing as shown in the picture above (numbered as 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5). Lay the strips perpendicular to one another in order to give the container more strength. (Click here to watch the video.) Keep doing this till your container is two layers thick (see the picture numbered as 6). Then leave it for drying overnight. On the next day, carefully remove your container from the bottle. You may have to use some force, but be gentle, you don’t want to break it. If necessary, use some prying tool to get it out. Don’t panic if it breaks slightly, It will be fixed in a moment, but try not to break it in two or three pieces. At this stage, your container should look somewhat like the one shown in picture above, numbered as 7 and 8.
After removing the container from the bottle, start covering it with newspaper stripes once again. This time, you have to make it thick enough so it is no more fragile.
One important note: let your container dry after every layer, otherwise molds could ruin your pencil holder. I dried mine in the sun, but if the sun is not in your favour, use your oven. Keep it in a warm oven and leave the door slightly open so water vapour could easily escape.
By now you may be wondering that the container looks so ugly. Yes you are right, it is. But it will no longer be, get prepared to make it look beautiful.
Start shredding more newspapers, but this time shred in smaller pieces. If you have a paper shredder, go ahead and use it, it will make your work a lot easier because you need a lot of shredded newspaper. Keep the shredded paper in a large bowl.
After shredding, add water to fill the bowl and let the paper soak in water for around 12 hours, it will make the process of making paper mache clay much easier.
Now that the paper has become soggy, start destroying it. (Take a look at the picture above or watch the video linked above.). Take your time and turn the paper into smooth pulp. Make sure there are no lumps in the pulp, because they will trouble you afterwards.
When you have turned the whole thing into pulp (like in picture numbered as 6 above), remove the excess water by straining and squeeze the pulp. You just need the pulp to be moist, there should be no water dripping from it.
Once you have got your pulp out of the water, add some paper mache glue to it and mix well. I added the pulp and paper mache glue in about 3:1 ratio. you don’t have to be precise.
If done correctly, you should now have your paper mache clay ready for next step. Your paper mache clay should look somewhat like bread dough.
Now that you have made paper mache clay, use it to sculpt around the container using your imagination. Use plenty of paper mache glue to make your sculpture smooth. I made my pencil holder look like a tree trunk (take a look at the images above), but you can get creative and make something else.
After you have done sculpting, dry it in the sun for at least 7 to 10 days before proceeding further. It has to dry completely not only from outside but also from inside otherwise molds will find their way to your pencil holder, and I don’t think you want that. So make sure it dries completely.
When I was making my pencil holder, the sun was not in my favour, so I had to use my oven to dry it.
You can do it too, Keep your pencil holder in warm oven and leave the door slightly open so the water vapour can escape.
TIP: Make sure there are no cracks tn your sculpture as they will reduce its strength. Fill any cracks with paper mache clay and plenty or paper mache glue.
Now that you have completed sculpting your pencil holder, let’s paint it to make it look even better.
But before painting it, cover it in a layer of PVA glue. Any PVA glue will work. Mix one part of PVA glue in one part water, and apply it on your pencil holder. It will make your pencil holder stronger.
Once the glue has dried, go ahead and paint your pencil holder according to your imagination using acrylic paint. Acrylic paint, apart from looking good, will seal your pencil holder so no moisture can enter and ruin it.
You can use any other paint if you want to but, you will have to seal your pencil holder with some sort of acrylic sealant to make your sculpture weather sealed.
Now go and make your own, and if you have any questions, feel free to ask me. Best Of Luck.
The Five Pointed Prism lamp is made up of ten geometrical panels, which makes a prism, displaying the same repeated pattern all the way through giving out beautiful rainbow colours around your chosen space
I use only LED lighting in my designs to contribute to keeping the environment friendly.
I begin by drawing my design on paper with rough sketches. I really enjoy geometrical shapes so I wanted to design one. I have had many failures on this design as I was not getting the mathematical measurements correct but I got there in the end. This is then drawn in illustrator to make this mathematically correct. I then send this file to a local laser cutter company to get these cut out of birch wood.
When the 10 templates have been cut (5 large and 5 small) to make a prism shape, I then stain the wood in a rich dark chocolate colour and leave to dry.
To get the wonderful colours, I use an acrylic iridescent fil.
Adding the acrylic film:
I then cut out the correct size shapes out of iridescent acrylic film by hand, This acrylic film is super colourful, covering the whole rainbow spectrum, purples, pinks, oranges, greens, blues and from metallic and copper colours, depending where you view the material from as this changes in an instance from one angle to the next
This is then stuck to one side of the wooden templates.
I have to spray the wooden template to set the film as it has an adhesive so this stops any dust attaching while its sticking to the wood.
As seen in the images, you can see the film gives out a real colourful coppers & metallic colours as well as blues/purples, this is the great thing about the material. While this is setting for 24 hours, I get to work with making the wooden base.
The wood varies from oak, ash, birch, rose, walnut, basically any thing I can get my hands on, from local saw mills, suppliers and wood merchants. Up cycled wood comes into my projects a lot as I like to use wood which people don’t require any more from tables, chairs, doors any thing really. I also find wood in forests.
You have to make sure the wood is air-dried for at least a good 18months other wise the wood splits.
I then cut this to size on my a table saw. I then clamp 5 sides together and leave to set for 24 hours. When set, I then sand this down with 3 different grits to get a clean finish, leaving the wood smooth and soft.
I then stain the wood in the rich dark chocolate colour to match the wooden templates.
Next stage is wiring up the lamps. I use a vintage spiral cord and only use LED bulbs for my lamp.
Now the acrylic film is set, I use my craft knife to cut out shapes with in the template. This takes time as I have to be vary careful to not cut where is not need as this will show through when light is projecting. Cutting the shapes out lets the natural light beam through.
I then copper foil each template and the solder each template individually around both side with soldering iron. I found this to be the best way in constructing the lamp.
To assemble my lamp:
This part is tricky, as I need two pairs of hands to do this so I ask fellow artists and my family to help me with this part. It’s very fiddly and getting the angles correct is challenging but well worth the finished out come. I do the soldering while I have an extra pair of hands to hold the templates to gather so I can pin them together with the solder. When the structure is complete, I then can go round the whole lamp and tidy up and fill all the gaps in with solder to make it neat and tidy with clean edges
The lamp sits at a height of 37cm and width 23 x 23 cm
I hope you have enjoyed my processes. If you have questions, then do ask.