How to stitch ‘French Knots Stitch’

Maybe it’s me, but what is there not to love about a French Knot? I LOVE them and I mean LOVE them. I have been incorporating them into my designs for many years, on their own as the centre of an itty bitty felt flower, an eye of a bird, on the tip of a butterfly antenna or on mass for a spectacular display. For such a tiny little stitch, it certainly has big impact!

The following sketch shows how to stitch a French Knot: and here are some photo’s of how I have found over time, the easiest way to stitch a French Knot. (Unlike my Blanket Stitch tutorial, you will note this time that both my hands are in the photo’s…I must say it’s definately easier when you have a photography assistant, AKA my husband Andy!) This is what I do, to start, bring your needle out to the required place. You will see from the pictures that I have added small dots marking the outside edge of the flower that I am stitching, to give me a line to follow.

Now encircle the thread around your needle twice

Pull the thread tight and at the same time lower your needle so that the looped thread is now positioned where you would like your French Knot to be.

Put your finger against the loops holding them in position and then gently pull your needle through. You will now have a neat little knot sitting on top of your fabric.

Finally to complete your stitch, put your needle back in as close as possible to where you started and take it through to the back.

you have now stitched a French Knot, just repeat the process again and again and ….

hope that you found this tutorial helpful, please do let me know! As always, if you have any questions, please do get in touch and I’ll do my very best to help.Source

DIY beach bag for the sea promenade

I sewed just such a beach bag, because soon the sea – this time, the magazine asks if anything new – and the two have not done anything interesting – three. Here again, “Three Nuts” for Cinderella … The trend, however …
That’s what we will say:

Well, could not you show your supervisor observer … best humor, looking at it … I ironed the bag, and he just does not reduce the eye with iron. .
Well, more to the point ..
We need:
Fabric dense -I have something like x b, or electric blue jeans – 60 cm and a width of 140
Cotton white and blue stripes – 0.5 m at 110 cm width
Sintepon density of 100 (that is, do not know, sintepon nepushisty, about 0.5 cm thick
Lining – I took the b y fabric shower curtain, which was on top in excellent form, and the bottom … well, just throw away – which I did. I think we can take Bologna, can be dome from an old umbrella, if not a little – well, I was looking for waterproof, and can in principle be anything that comes to fabric bags.
Nonwoven different thickness: very thick, that is called a hat – on the bottom of the bag, the average density in the pockets.  And appliqué cotton  and a tight – in handle.
Threads and tools – of course …
Immediately utochnyu- add: can not take it, do not look for such companions, to simplify the problem, if we take the underlying tissue a little more 1 meter – for the eyes, even in the makeup stays, and buy a suitable webbing to taste – about 1.5 meters. I had a problem that the fabric is bought for a long time and a very different bag, it is not enough to handle.Absolutely. Therefore, it is looking for the fabric, but such that it was possible to put on the finishing.

First cutting. Dimensions of parts  give allowances without taking for granted that the  allowances laid already and everywhere equal to 1 cm.  Fractional passes downwards details – any details.
From outer fabric:
panel – 58 cm x 38 cm – 2 pieces
bottom – 46 cm x 10 cm 1 piece (I had to do two pieces)
handles – 76 cm x 9 cm – 2 pieces (I – from finishing)
Lining of nepromokashki (I turquoise):
front and rear panel – 58 cm x 30 cm – two pieces
the bottom – 46 cm x 10 cm
pockets – I have two of them: 30 x 38 cm – 2 pieces. If the lining is the direction of the figure, keep in mind that the details on the pockets are folded, finished pocket is 28 cm x 18 cm, with the top edge of the pocket – fold.
Sintepon: 58 cm x 31 cm – 2 pieces
Braid or fabric for trim strips: approximately 18 cm long, 20, 23, 25, 28 and the shelf width 3 cm, 5 cm in cutting.
sewing sequence.
1. Start with a lining.
Pockets. Details pockets folded in half and one half of each glue interlining medium density, then Sew the two halves of the details, leaving the seam slit for eversion. Do not forget to cut the corners close to the line, so that the pocket was well decorated. Release, sweeping over the edge and to iron. Baste lining panel to the details so that the fold was on the top parts (pocket entrance), and the pocket was clearly in the middle of the sides with respect to the future bags and 7 cm from the upper edge:

Stitched, not forgetting to do tack at the beginning and the end. I divided the pocket into two parts – for sunscreen and tanning oil, for example …))) The second pocket is performed in exactly the same, but in 2 parts I was not shared – to leave more. I sew it on the second panel. From a small piece of outer fabric sewn pouch for your phone – its size + 2 cm in width – is at the discretion.
When the pockets are ready to connect the parts lining on the sides, allowances press them apart, do not forget to tack –  it’s important.  Then mark the center of each panel along the bottom, from the middle to put both sides at 23 cm.
Pay attention  to the pair of panels of sizes and floor: panel width = length + width of the bottom of the bottom. In other words, the panel is cut 58 cm wide, 2 of them went to see the allowances, is 56, divide in half – 28 minus 23 (the bottom half of the length). The residue was 5 cm on each side – half the width of the bottom. If such a narrow bottom not like it, or shorten it to 4, for example, see, and then you can cut out of its width of 13 cm, or add to the side panels bags at 4 cm per panel and the bottom, too, cut 13 cm. In the event of a change bag sizes Remember to count the size of all the components.
That’s mate is very important – if not then flog. At discrepancy of the size of the bag will slash-curve …
Thus, the marked out panel, marked out the middle of the length of the floor on both sides and the middle of the narrow sides of the bottom. Begin alignment with the long sides. We combine labels of means and the bottom panel, fix the beginning and the end of the bed with the marking points, shear pins. Repeat all this from the second panel and the second side of the bottom. . You can scribble  Again note:  start and finish line is necessary at combining – for allowance of the short sides of the bottom of the bag no scribbling !!!
. See the picture – it is clear that the long sides of the bottom of a line begins and ends exactly at the bottom right corner.

Now a little “piece of work”: allowance bag walls is necessary to make an incision at the exact beginning and end of the line (see photo). Once notched, short sections of the bottom right will be easy and convenient to the sidewalls Stitch – and here it is already possible to make a small tack on allowances.
On the lining, I specifically 1mm captured area (see zazhimchik?), To hedge themselves from the hole in the lining. But the outer part of the bag will not tolerate – remember: a perfect match at the corners.

Lining can be put aside and start working with the outside of the bag.
A little will go back, why start with padding. First, the exterior and interior of the bag sewn in different threads, and so as not to rearrange the thread back and forth, at first I did all the work of turquoise, and then all the work went blue. Secondly, small errors lined excusable and be corrected, the same on the outside of the bag or errors should not be, or not patches are welcome (depending on the tissue), so it is best to practice on the lining, and then sew the top of the bag. Well it is, thinking “in the course of play” …)))
The front panel of the bag lay on the table face up, take soap or disappearing pen and start rascherchivat trim from the center of the panel put the first finishing strip, skip 1 cm – the second, etc. The height of the bars is arbitrary, as you like. The only thing you should pay attention to: the highest band must be from the middle of no more than 8 cm, because pens we sew it at such a distance from the center, therefore it is desirable to take into account docking handles and the highest strips. Either make them all not higher than 25 cm, so that the strip is not docked with the handle.
Nastrachivaem strips around the perimeter, tucking sections. At the bottom of the short sections of the bag was left open.

Now rascherchivaem stitch. I took a step in the lines of 4 cm – can be less or more. On the underside of the details to make padding polyester, with the bottom sintepon does not cover the allowance for sewing the bottom and at the top it does not reach the upper edge 7 cm shear sintepon and upper part bags starting from the center -.  This is important . Smoothes out the details on the table with respect to each other and transverse shear pins (see photo). This sequence will prevent or minimize the formation and progress syntepon ugly blisters on the bag.
Stitch stitch is necessary in the face and also from the center to the edges.

That’s what happens. See photos:. Up-down allowances available without padding polyester, and the side seam allowances to close slightly sprawled synthetic padding.

This is nothing to worry about, after grinding , grabbing sintepon, parts bags we pruning it literally right up to the line, so that the seam was not on the extra thickness. Then sew the bottom just as it sewn into the lining. Just do not forget: first glue on the bottom of the piece fleece hat firmly against the bottom of the finished bags, ie 46 x 10 cm It should look something like this.:

Otutyuzhivaem all seams as the assembly of the bag.
Now, without twisting the bag and removing the lining, we put it on the bag. Oversize bags on top of 7 cm turn down, mark up from the fold 5 cm sections buckled inward and put lining sections at the top of the single cut the piping bag. At the same time put shnurochek small telephone pocket.

Otstrachivaem on the edge of the piping, completely finishing the bag.
It is possible to postpone. Details for pens, because I was thin cotton, fully taped average density and interlining hemstitch their external stitching (folding piece in half along the length, each half still in half slices go inside, stitch along the edge of the handle). Ironed.
From bags center mark up the position of the handle at a distance of 8 cm each, ie . Between the ends of the handles 16 cm from the top of the bag handles are sewn 5 cm sew like this: loop handle pointing down, the tips – up to flash a tack through the stitching single cut the piping bag, clipped allowance, unscrew the handle up and vystrachivaem rectangle mounting knobs. closing blade handle oversize the first line: clean and tight.
One pen tip on the front side in the highest match finishing strip butted. At the junction of the adhesive paste the apllikatsiyu – anchor.
Once again otutyuzhivaem bag with oparivaniem simultaneously remove steam soaps markup – and admire !!!!

The back side of the bag – it is without finishing. You can do the same thing on the right side, but I did not bother ..

Hopefully, like handbag, and someone will want to get yourself

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How to make slippers at home

Ready to present to the readers the result of all my torment – a fast, easy way to make a budget and original, bright, comfortable, and most importantly, it is sturdy and socks home tapuli 🙂
To make them, I prepared a special the pattern to be printed on thermal transfer. Its use greatly simplifies and accelerates the process and reduces practically to zero all possible difficulties and errors when cutting parts.
In addition to the light pattern need felt for the transfer of transfer, any suitable (I only had white today) felt for insoles, and my main inspiration this week – cork sheet. In this case, 3 mm thick. Well, glue, I liked most of all to use the moment of the crystal.

The first step will transfer the pattern on the felt. Due to the fact that in recent years I began to ask more questions about the transfer of technology, I allow myself a little bit more to say about it today.
First, we need to arrange the pattern face in felt and heat the iron to  nearly  the maximum temperature. Hot iron begin carefully ironed sheet, not missing the edge corners.

In my opinion better than some overheated iron during ironing noted that Felt began podplavlyatsya (this is not an instantaneous process and you will always have time just to weaken the heat, nothing bad will happen) than pat all the cold iron and obtain a fragmentary translated image, the and thus spoiling the pattern, and felt.

Pat about a minute the entire structure, then cool for her to just warm to the touch and remove the top layer of paper checkered. Picture translated.

Cut parts slippers without seam allowance.

Since the pattern I made the most versatile, it adhered to the principle of “more is better than less.” Therefore, at this stage, I recommend to try it at least about, and if it would be more than necessary, trim the side  , as shown in the photo. The size of the top and bottom, as a rule, there is no need to reduce, only if it will be slippers for the baby.

Patterns for both slippers place on the felt sheet. It is not necessary to take the white, can be any color.

And sew a semicircular seam details. Only the top.

Now cut out the contour of Circuits, getting a double top for future slippers.

Now we need a pattern for the insole. Its very easy to get. Simply cut around his foot on a piece of paper with a decent margin, or simply ready to take any slippers that you feel most comfortable and circle them sole.

Insoles only contours, but not cut. I turned out to be more convenient to sew, in that order.
Now tack double-top sneakers. Two tack approach since each of them from the middle of the sock.

According to Smetana will be very easy stitched top. After the machine stitches can pull Basting thread.

Now Slippers with insole can be cut, retreating 2-3 mm from the edge of the line. We do the same with the second and slippers.

Now the time has come to proceed to the final stage. We will make the sole slippers. After various searches of suitable material, I stopped at a traffic jam. Experience has shown that it is quite easy to use and very easy. The wearing it is very practical, especially in the taped version. Do Tube good cushioning properties, and even a thin layer of it is sufficient to use slippers to be comfortable.

Take the glue and properly lubricate the bottom surface of the felt soles. Clay, among other things, stabilizes the fine tube, reducing its brittleness and preventing the possibility of cracking at bend further.
Glue insole to sheet stoppers. Cut it quite rude, just to be able to put the clip.

Cork glued well and quickly, after the glue has firmly grasped, it is possible to remove the clip and cut along the contour of the insole slippers.

You can stop at this stage or further stitch perimeter slipper on the sewing machine. Cork sewn very easily, in spite of the thickness.

That’s all, slippers ready. In the next picture I have tried to demonstrate that the cork glued to felt sufficiently strong on a bend.

Source

Brazilian Embroidery Stitches – Step By Step

Brazilian Embroidery Stitches techniques :
I have determined to begin with my finished flower/motif. nowadays I’m progressing to write of some Brazilian dimensional embroidery stitche techniques that employment on behalf of me. every stitcher has their own best approach of operating with the floss and stitches and completely different academics can have other ways of showing others. My suggestion is to learn from all so do what works best for you.

Source

How to make fancy curtains

First, you must select the fabric for curtains tailoring.  Beautifully will look fabric with metal overflow. Well look contrasting transitions in tone.
In the present master class puffs sewn on the cornice of 1.3 m. For this you need a piece of fabric at a ratio of one to two, or 1 to 2.5 relative to the length of the cornice.
We eaves length 1.3 m – needs a piece of fabric 3.25 +0.5 (allowance at side seams), only 3.3 m.

In width:
• 0,65 m 3-band (as in the diagram), the height of product in finished form 0.45 m;
0.83 m • 4-band products in finished form height 0.55 m;
• 1,01 m-5 strips off the shelf height 0.65 m.
Learn, please scheme. See photos.
he harvested tissue peruse for defects, check the length and width, steamed iron. The sides of the future curtains  See photos. For comfortable work and avoid errors, you need to make patterns out of cardboard.
1. №1 = 8 cm (6 cm – width webbing + 1 cm seam tape+ 1 cm volume)
2. №2 = 18 cm;
3. №3 = 15 cm. Choose a place where we are going to create your masterpiece. Ideal – a large table. It decompose and flatten stripped cloth. The fabric should lie face down.

Take the mold 8 cm wide (№1) applying it to the upper tissue slice. Now, take the curve №2 (width 18 cm), apply to have the line drawn by again drawing a line along the entire length of our fabric. Repeat this process three times. We have to be parallel to the line width: 8 cm, 18 cm, 18 cm, 18 cm Take curve №3, we are putting any of the side seams and perpendicular lines to the already drafted. We get the mesh. To make it convenient to work in the cells draw a diagonal, as shown in the photo. Take the needle and thread in tissue tone, and at the cell diagonally fasten the first puff. Stitches tacks do five – six times. Secure all puffs for this series. The next series begin to fix on the side where you’ve finished the first row whip. Follow the scheme. Third row starts where finished second whip. And so all the rows under the scheme. Be careful. This is the result of the first phase of your work. The truth is impressive? The bottom of the curtains in our master class we will process the fringe. In fact, the methods of processing weight: seam in the hem, processing piping, lace, beads …

like fabric, you need to advance to steam and smooth We are putting a fringe to the bottom edge of the curtains. We combine slices. Fabric and fringe wrong side together. Sew, Now, gently loosen the fringe on the front side. Do this for the entire length of the edge of the fringe and paving machines line. Bottom curtains ready. Look inside out – it’s perfect. It remains to handle the upper section of the curtains. Take special braid for processing top curtains. Put them to the wrong side of each other. Pre-need to hem curtains and braid 1 cm. Sew their machine stitching. Lay the second parallel line is strictly for lace center. Line lay on the front side. The ends of the thread carefully hide. Run the same parallel line on the edge of the tape. Gently pull the fabric by hand. Contractible four strands to braid. Puffs acquire a very different kind. And then, finally, the result of work. Beauty, is not it? So, this curtain looks in the doorway.

DIY: Beautiful Mobile Cover

Required Material:

  • The basic fabric padding polyester,
  • The fabric for the lining,
  • Different materials for decoration.

To cover carve out a rectangle the size of which will depend on your tablet. I look forward to the width of the rectangle as follows: the width of the tablet + two plate thickness + 1 cm + 1 cm allowance on the thickness of padding polyester. The height of the rectangle = height + tablet allowances. After the main part is cut, stitching it together with synthetic padding. And sew cover on the side seams. Try on the resulting “pouch” on the plate, make sure that all the measurements done right.  Now take the lining. We take the same height, as in the previous parts, but the width is calculated as the sum of allowances (I 1 cm) and the width of the inner part, which is obtained in the previous step. (The fact that the width of the pad will be slightly smaller than the width of the rectangle of the base fabric by padding polyester layer). Cut out the lining, sew along the side seams, while necessarily leaving nezashitym hole to cover then you can turn on the front side. Try on the tablet.  Time to reflect on how the case will zakryvatsya- can use a magnetic button, button, or, as in my case- Velcro. I carve and sew a small valve, which will shut case.  We put the wrong part of the cover into the rectangle of the base fabric (make sure that the front of the items placed together), between them put the valve is sewn. Wrenched the resulting cover on the front side (through the hole that was left in the backing parts), paving the decorative stitch along the top seam, and be sure to sew up the hole in the lining. Source

Handmade cloth bag patterns

Different type of cloth bag patterns!

We offer a wide variety of handbag, purse, tote bag and travel bag patterns to suit your every need.

Create a bag that you can carry for any occasion or during any season. This free purse pattern is absolutely perfect in every way and is great for moms and grandmas on the go.

Handmade cloth bag pattern ideas

There are many different ways to make a cloth bag, but using a pattern is often the easiest way to get started. There are a variety of different patterns available for handmade cloth bags, so you can choose the one that best suits your needs. Whether you want a simple tote bag or something more elaborate, you can find a pattern to suit your taste.

Creative swan theme handmade cloth bags design

Pink Handmade cloth bag design for girls and kids

Red flower cloth bag design

Cute patchwork bag design

Colorful cloth bag design

Tote Bag With Patchwork

Handmade cloth bag

Patchwork cloth bag pattern

Cloth bag for girls

Cloth bag pattern for married women

Denim cloth bag pattern

Cloth bag pattern for Girls

Cloth bag pattern for Mother

Cloth bag pattern for Animal Lovers

Cloth bag pattern for Kids

Cloth bag pattern with Lotus Flower

Cloth bag pattern for Denim Lovers

Cloth bag pattern with Wooden Handle

Cloth bag pattern for Storing Daily Items

Elegant cloth bag pattern

Cloth bag design with flowers

Cloth bag design with leather belt

Types of Cloth Bag Patterns

1. Cloth Bag Patterns

Cloth bags are great for storing small items, especially if they have a drawstring closure. You can make them out of any fabric you want, but I recommend using cotton or linen fabrics. If you use a heavier fabric, you may need to add some weight to the bottom of the bag to keep it from flopping over.

2. Drawstring Bags

Drawstring bags are similar to regular cloth bags except that they have a drawstring at the top instead of a zipper. These types of bags are great for storing smaller items, like keys, coins, and jewelry.

3. Handbag Pattern

This pattern is perfect for making a handbag! You can use any type of fabric you want, but my favorite is canvas. You can find free printable patterns online, or you can buy a pattern book.

4. Tote Bag Pattern

Totes are great for carrying groceries, school supplies, and other things around the house. You can make these bags out of any type of fabric you choose, but I recommend using canvas or denim.

5. Zipper Bags

Zipper bags are great for storing larger items, like books, magazines, and clothes. You can make these out of any type of material you want, but I prefer using nylon or polyester.

6. Fabric Flower Bags

Flower bags are great for holding flowers. You can make these from any type of fabric you like, but I recommend using a lightweight fabric.

7. Fabric Flower Pots

These flower pots are great for growing herbs indoors. You can make these pots out of any type of plastic or ceramic material you want, but my favorites are terracotta and clay.

Homemade small sewing basket

Today a boss and a little tutorial to make a cute little stitching bag, inspired by the scrap booking tote bags, which you will be able to see page 78 of my last book, Workshops, and sewing corners.

To make it, you need:
– of matching cotton,
– of interlining to stiffen and reinforce the small pockets
– of Vlieseline X50 or H630 (a little fleece and Thermo coll ante on one side) to give a holding to the basket.
– the bias (or bias) associated with the selected tissues.

Here are the templates of the different parts: pdf file to print the sewing margins are not included Parts A and A “bis”: long side of the basket where the handle is (to be cut 4 times in the fabric, interlining Colleton e) Parts B and B “bis”: small side of the basket (cut 4 times in the fabric, 2 times in the interlining ….é ). Exhibit C: backplane (2 times cut in the fabric, interlining 1 time in …..é ). And the sizes of the small pockets (sewing margins are not included)

Pocket d: large pocket of part A (to be cut once in the fabric and once in the interlining) Pocket e: small pocket of part A (to be cut once in the fabric and once in the interlining) Pocket f: medium pocket of the piece Abis (to be cut once in the fabric and once in the interlining) Pocket g: left pocket of B (to be cut once in the fabric and once in the interlining) Pocket H: Right B pocket (to be cut 1 time in the fabric and 1 time in the interlining) Pocket i:  left pocket (to be cut once in the fabric and once in the interlining) Pocket j: pocket (To be cut 1 time in the fabric and 1 time in the interlining) Step 1: Prepare the 4 sides of the baskets and the bottom of the basket ■ Draw and cut each piece in the outer fabric and inside the fabric by adding The margins of seams.

■ Cut parts A, B and C in the fleece fabric without seam allowance and attach each piece of fleece to the corresponding piece of the outer fabric. Wait about ten minutes before handling them again.

■ Sewing the handles of the parts A: Place the outer part An on the inner part A, right side up and sew the opening on the right stitch (place the fleece over you, redraw the hole on the fleece).

Using a chisel or wire cutter, slit the inside of the opening and crunch the ends.

Pass the outer fabric through the hole in the opening, position the pieces face-to-face and stitch the round of the opening.

Finally, bend the handle between the 2 markers. You get this:

■ Prepare sides B : place each inner piece on each outer piece, place against the place and assemble the top edge.

Turn over, place iron and stitch on place 0.5cm from an edge.

Step 2: Prepare the pockets.

■ For pockets, choose to border the edge that remains open, or make a simple hem if the fabric is thick enough, or double with another fabric.

Think about covering the fine fabrics so that the pockets have the hold and can contain the material that you will put in it.

■ Attach the pockets to the sides of the basket.

You can divide one of the large pockets of the sides An or Abis, by sewing straight lines that will make separations for your pencils, rulers etc.

We obtain the 4 sides thus, and the bottom:

■ Mounting the basket:

Scuff the sides and bottom. Assemble the sides together, then sew the bottom of the basket.

And return to the place:

So here is a small storage basket, to divert according to your desires (for children’s felts and pencils, makeup products in the bathroom etc), a gift idea more for Christmas approaching;)

Ribbon embroidery Step By Step Image Tutorial

Ribbon embroidery is a romantic, old art that uses ribbon, embroidery floss, and perle cotton to work beautiful floral motifs and decorative stitch patterns by hand on garments and accessories.

I love the antique quality of this form of embroidery, and I use it to embellish crazy-quilted bags and purses,contemporary garments as well as cushion cut from a single fabric. Ribbon embroidery is easy and fun to do, and even a novice embroiderer can create elegant floral arrangements and beautiful patterns with some simple stitches.

Ribbon embroidery Step By step Tutorial

Ribbon embroidery is a form of needlework that uses ribbon instead of thread. It can be used to create a variety of designs, from simple to complex.

Ribbon embroidery is a relatively easy form of needlework to learn. The most basic stitches are the straight stitch, the chain stitch, and the satin stitch. These can be used to create a variety of simple designs. More complex stitches can be used to create more detailed designs.

Ribbon embroidery can be used to embellish clothing, linens, and other items. It can also be used to create stand-alone pieces of art.

Ribbon embroidery Step By step guide

If you’re interested in learning ribbon embroidery, there are a number of books and online resources that can help you get started. Once you’ve learned the basic stitches, you’ll be able to create beautiful designs that will add a touch of elegance to any project.

Basic embroidery stitches tutorial for beginners

These embroidery stitches for beginners. I hope this tutorial will help to new beginners to learn embroidery stitch.
The art of embroidery dates back several thousand years. No one knows for certain when or where it originated, but it was an important part of early Chinese culture. Embroidered silk garments have been found in the tombs of wealthy Chinese aristocrats who died before the Common Era. Ancient examples of custom embroidery have also been uncovered in Egypt and Turkey.

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Hand Embroidery: Basic Stitches for beginners

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Hand Embroidery: Raised Stem

3

Hand Embroidery: Chain & Button Hole Stitch

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Hand Embroidery: Thorn Stitch design

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Hand Embroidery: Lazy Daisy stitch