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How to decorate saree from fabric pompom

What you’ll need : :

  • Scrap fabric pieces measuring at least 2″x 2″ each
  • Purchased Pompoms
  • Pearl Cotton or DMC embroidery floss
  • Sharp scissors and an embroidery needle
  • Note * Click on any of my images for a larger picture

Making the Fabric Pompoms : :

1. Place the pompom in the center of the fabric scrap 2. Fold the edges of the fabric up around the pompom 3. Wrap the floss around the fabric right above the pompom 4. Knot thread ends together well, trim, and trim the fabric ends even Continue making your Fabric Pompoms until you have the amount you need. Fabric Pompoms Details : :

I’m adding mine to my Fabric Lover’s Apron, any item will use these same instructions.

1. Layout your design 2. Place the Fabric Pompom onto the item 3. Using a needle threaded with floss and knotted at one end, insert the needle at one side of the pompom pulling up through the back of the fabric item 4. Pull thread all the way through until it catches the knot 5. Insert the needle on the other side of the pompom, pulling back though the fabric so the floss is holding the pompom tightly in place 6. Knot well, close to the fabric, and trim away excess floss Continue until all of your Fabric Pompoms are attached. Voila! You’re finished!  Variation ideas : : You can reverse how you attach them so only the Fabric Pompom ball is showing for a less funky look. You can add them to a pillow this way or attach these just as you would purchased pompom fringe. Here is an example of that on a pillow of mine from Pier1. I hope you enjoy this tutorial!!! This Fabric Pompom detail is something I’ll certainly be adding to the edges of many of my own handmades!

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Pump Lace Stitch Flower Embroidery Designs

Clothing is important as a commodity because it has worldwide appeal and plays a substantial role in the world economy. Fashion trends are a global phenomenon so wearing the right kind of attire plays an important role in everybody’s life. With this view several embroideries digitising companies have come up all around the globe to meet the current standards and a vast range of fashion wear. Digitising embroidery simply means creating fashionable and varied forms of embroidery by utilising computer generated software and applications. The digitising application is fed several stitch patterns or image files, which it stores, and processes into several files which are then read by embroidery machines to be sewn into perfect embroidered fabric. Embroidery digitising has vastly simplified the process of designing fashionable clothes, as the process employed is simple and requires minimum human intervention. The whole idea of creating your line of clothes seems much easier, faster and cost-effective than it used to be before. Today, people are actually thinking about designing their own clothes since the advent of digitising software and machines. The simple requirements of embroidery digitising are a computer-operated system, digitising machine and software, and design patterns. The designs employed can be self created or you can download the designs online or further manipulate them to give it your own personal touch. Embroidery digitising software can also be downloaded from the internet to help you in creating your own patterns. This way you can also boost your embroidery skills and come up with unique stitches that will never have common designs. With the simple instructions, anyone can learn the digitising techniques and it is far simpler than the complex hand embroidery techniques. Computerised embroidery has become popular over the years due to the low labour that is placed in its work and the high supply of quality clothes that are made out of it. Perfecting the art of embroidery manually is quite difficult but the digitised embroidery is almost always minutely perfect. Less effort and lack of wastage of time are added advantages. Manual embroidery requires an embroidery machine that is costly and but the cost of embroidery digitising is far less as anyone can easily buy the embroidery software and install them in their computer systems to create amazing embroidery patterns. The economics of selling yourself- designed clothes are also promising. Besides, one can also opt to sell their embroidery techniques, as there are several individuals and companies who seek quality embroidery designs and patterns. There are many websites and online manufacturers who are regularly using digitised embroidery to create fabulous clothes. A lot of websites also sell their digitised patterns and have uploaded their finished designs for consideration. Today people from various fields are actually thinking about creating their own clothes and selling it online since the inception of digitised embroidery has made it all very simple. All in all embroidery digitising can be a good source of income and beneficial to a lot of people in future.

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DIY Floor mat using old cloth

Floor mat using old cloth. DIY flower shaped rug from recycled fabric.

Video to share an idea to transform old fabric materials to a beautiful flower shaped floor rug.The square shaped pieces are 12cm/12cm.The long strips are 12cm in height and length can be any size which can be cut and arrange later. The circle shaped thick fabric can be any size according to the availability of total fabric you got. My rug size is 80cm in diameter.How to make mat at home with waste clothes.

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Different Types Of Kurti Designs For Stitching

Kurti has become the women and girls most favourite style statement to look stylish with the charming traditional look. These classy yet trendy kurtas are so comfortable that you can wear them round the clock. The best part is that you can easily modify and customise Kurtis for different looks. Available in different styles and patterns, kurta is first to picked of college going girls, working women, social women as well as of housewives for any occasion. Fashion designers are trying to keep pace with the growing popularity of kurtas and find endless options to design kurtas according to the latest trends. As a result, wearer gets ample choices, from ethnic to indo-western style with different patterns, cuts, and designs. Some popular types of Kurtis are mentioned here; just have a look and you will get smart ways to look best in all avatars.

Courtesy: Oleevia fashion

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Sew a ruched neckline step by step

Now, if you recall, when we designed the patterns for our bodices, we left it at the point where the underdress ruched neckline was higher than the overdress neckline so that the underdress neckline would show. But what we want to show is a strip of puffing that we’re (ostensibly) going to insert into the underdress neckline. So we need to address that situation right now before it goes a step further.
Pattern
I think an inch and a half is gracious plenty for a puffing strip. So we’re just going to lower the underdress neckline by 1 1/2″.

The puffing strip is going to be a straight strip of fabric, so we won’t really need a pattern piece for it. So we’ll go ahead and add the seam allowance back on to the neckline before we cut it out.
We’ll consider here for a second what the puffing strip dimensions need to be. As for length, since we don’t want it to be frilly-puffy, just moderately puffy, I think we’ll measure the neckline and cut the puffing strip 1 1/2x the length. We could measure the pattern pieces at this point, or we could measure them when we’ve sewn the shoulder seams and the whole neckline is waiting for us to stick the puffing in. I think that’ll be easier.
The width of the puffing strip is like this: We want the final strip to be 1 1/2″ wide. It needs a seam allowance on the bottom, where it adjoins the bodice neckline, but it does not need a seam allowance on top since we’re going to bind it.
Now we need to sew up the bodice. We’re going to line this bodice completely. First, we’ll start by cutting 2 backs and 2 fronts on the fold:

Shoulder seams
Now we’re going to sew the shoulder seams together. Each front shoulder seam goes to the shoulder seam of a different back piece, and then the remaining back shoulder seams go to the remaining front piece again. So that the whole thing makes one big happy circle:

What we’re going for here is a lined bodice without a center back seam, which make more sense if I fold the lining underneath, like this:

Inserting Puffing
Get it now? Good, because here comes the puffing strip:

The puffing strip is a straight strip cut lengthwise, with both ends finished and gathering threads run down the long ends. A fairly innocuous puffing strip, all in all.
Now we’ll find the precise place where our back pieces are supposed to fold over (which is not the center back, which would have made it easier to say), and put a pin there.

Now we’re going to open the neckline up and place the finished ends of the puffing strip right there, cozied up to the pins, and the center of the puffing strip at the center front. The puffing strip and the bodice are right sides together.

Then we’ll pull up the puffing bobbin threads so that the puffing strip fits the neckline:

adjusting the gathers so they look nicely distributed, and pinning many, many times. Now we’ll just sew that down, along with the inner gathering thread.
Once that’s sewn down, pressed gently, and good to go, we’ll place the lining on top of the puffing, making a sandwich, and sew that down:

See the puffing in between the layers? Now we’ll press the seam, trim it, and turn it right side out:

A row of edge stitching at the base of the puffing, through all layers, makes this look very crisp. Do notice, if you would, that if we’d taken big clips out of the seam allowance they would be very obvious at this point.
Now we’ll just pull up these little gathering threads that we put at the top of the gathering strip:

Binding
Now we’ll bind that top edge, okay?
First, we need a binding strip. This time we are going to use a French binding. The width of the binding needs to be 6x the finished width of the binding, plus 1/4-3/8″ to allow for folding. The length needs to be the length of the gathered puffing edge, plus a couple of inches. This measurement doesn’t need to be very precise, as we’re just going to trim the ends when we get to that point, but we certainly don’t want the binding strip too short. This strip, since it’s going around a curve, needs to be cut on the bias.
The strip is folded, wrong sides together, and pressed.

Now we’ll pin the long raw edges to the raw edge of the puffing strip, with the binding on the wrong side of the puffing and sew that carefully down.

Here I’ve sewn again 1/8″ from the first stitching and trimmed the seam allowance close to the second stitching.
Now we’ll fold that binding around to the front and pin it so that the fold covers the stitching on the front:

The ends need to be folded in like this:

Now, slowly, because we’re going around a curve and this is a focal point in our dress here, we’ll edgestitch close to that fold to sew the binding down.

Side Seams
Before we can put this on the dress form to look at it, we’ll need to sew up those four little side seams. Bodice to bodice, lining to lining.

Pressing those and putting them in place lets us look at the bodice:

We did not baste the armhole and its lining together because we’re going to need it loose when we attach the bodice to the skirt.
Here’s a closer look at the finished neckline:

And here we are so far:

Now all that’s left is to create the blue bodice and sew it all together. Whew! Which we’ll do next time.

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